Category: menswear day
Menswear day happened over a week ago, which makes it a perfect time to re-assess. Sometimes, amidst the half-remembered details of a collection seen or after catching up on what you missed in person, new favourites emerge. But I have to say, watching the footage of the A Child of the Jago show at Wilton’s Music Hall back again, only adds to the sentiment that this was one of the finest shows that day.
“I don’t NEED to know what the suits are made of”, commented one female (presumed) journalist on the stairs above The Lincoln Room, deep within The Savoy Hotel, “Well I do, replied her colleague, “I have to write about this stuff!”. Given you’re reading this, I’m sure you’ll agree with me that as men we really do care about what we wear, and whilst certain quarters of the fashion press still think of men’s fashion needs in the third person, with men to be passively shopped for and “kept on trend”, luckily the greater part of the audience for the E.Tautz presentation on Wednesday looked to be much more likeminded, sharing an expectation that we were about to see beautiful menswear and to be educated about it by Patrick Grant.
Menswear Day at London Fashion Week is always a visual feast, as much for the unparalleled opportunity to see dressed up men of all kinds parading Somerset House and it’s environs, as for anything presented more formally by the designers. Some features will follow on collections I’m particularly excited by for SS12, but here are just a few highlights from yesterday.
I’ve had some Sharpened Lead T-shirts made up as a little celebration of Fashion weeks in NYC and London. T-shirts have already found their way to good homes in New York (some favourite designers, blogging friends and fashion editors) and now it’s London’s turn in prep for Wednesday’s Menswear day.
The T-shirt is screenprinted on a high-quality unbleached cotton by the lovely White Duck Screenprint people in Bath. The image is one I’ve licensed especially for this limited run of T-shirts, featuring a line drawing of Quentin Crisp, a personal idol of mine. The motto reads: “You first have to find out who you are, then be it like mad”, a saying that I’ve taken very much to heart in recent years and very much sums up my attitude to fashion.
There are still some available, so if you’re interested do drop me a line firstname.lastname@example.org. They will retail for £35.00 +P&P. Only size SMALL available.
Some images of the magical screenprinting process follow:
Many readers will be too young to remember the Croft Original cream sherry advert which featured the line ‘One instinctively knows when something is right’ but that was definitely the case when I spotted the delicate lace ties by Marwood via a lovely piece by Steve on Style Salvage back in January. A few glimpses of the creamy, fragile-looking lace bow ties in particular, and I was penning an enquiry email to Becky French who runs the label, having read that the ties would be exclusively be available at b Store and even then not for some time. Running into Becky in person at her Fashion East installation at LFW menswear day a few weeks later, allowed me to follow up my request in person, with promises of a special feature on Sharpened Lead. Fast forward a couple of months and you’ll see me eagerly unwrapping the exquisite parcel, a moment I share with you here.
No London Fashion Week is complete without a visit to the peerless Showroom Next Door. Run with charming hospitality and a killer eye for beautiful, individual clothing by the Dover Street Market-connected Touba Distribution. The selections available during the most recent Fashion Week, in February were particularly strong. Now in a new location, though still within refined Mayfair, a visit to the Showroom combines the exclusivity of a salon with the informality of the best of boutique shopping.
Tween was an unexpected highlight of menswear day this year. Perking up the fashion weary at literally the closing show of Fashion Week, with a collection that was impressive both in the number of looks and the savvy combination of tailoring with outdoorsy details like quilting and waxed cottons. The elegant menswear on show suggested that the Turkish designer was well attuned to the English context of the show. I hate the term ‘one to watch’ but nevertheless: Gunes Guner Işık is one to watch.
As if Shoreditch’s George & Dragon needed any more legendariness, Sibling’s film for their 6th collection features a cluster of likely lads downing pints at the Hackney Road institution. This time around the knitwear features emblems familiar through pub signage: Red Lions, George & Dragons and, in a typically perverse touch, pandas, a cute take on the Mexican wrestler mask complete with panda ears. With a soundtrack provided by Jerry Bouthier of Boombox fame, including a track by The Fall, Sibling make evident their connections with the coolest corners of London’s fashion circles.
Seven days ago today I was lucky enough to attend the E.Tautz menswear show during London Fashion Week. This season I have deliberately held back from rushing out posts as I wanted to savor what was a joyous day for menswear in London. And the E.Tautz presentation was certainly a highlight worth appreciating over time, as you would wish to linger over a mouthful of good wine before swallowing.
Despite the slight scrum and occasional fashion snarl at the over zealous ROH security staff, we were finally ushered up the plush staircase to the salon-like atmosphere of the aptly named Crush Room. Under the refined light from that now much-photographed chandelier the fashion weary crowd were soothed by piano music and the promise of elegance.
Patrick announced that he would not be talking through each look during this presentation (and judging by … Read More »
J.W Anderson, The Fear of Naturalism, mens AW 11 collection
The 9am slot is notoriously difficult, fashion people not being known for a love of morning appointments but J.W. Anderson drop kicked us into the day with a show simmering with subversive elements.
As seats filled, the audio atmospherics popped and fizzed like a forest at dawn, the sound of a legion of insects about to invade. A swirl of cold wintry sound and ‘Eisbaer’, an anthem of the early 80s Neue Deutsche Welle by Swiss band Grauzone, kicked in. Transferring us instantly to the free zone of 1980s Kreuzberg squats, and a time when people reveled in the opportunity to tear things up and start again.
In the notes for this collection Anderson stated that his intention was to. Androgynous insect boys strode out in slim fitting but multi-layered combinations, their overall silhouttes resembling stick insects or mantes. Hair was uniformly short and rigidly groomed, a very Berlin combination of regulation and punk attitude.