With less than a week to go now until the launch of London Collections: Men, it seems very fitting to be posting about the house of E.Tautz and it’s designer, Patrick Grant. Last season I witnessed Patrick backstage, remarkably calm whilst models took their final walks (hairclips still in place) and this sense of quiet yet purposeful confidence is a great sentiment I think to be carrying forward as next week’s schedule kicks in. E.Tautz would inevitably end up on any list I drew up of the best of London menswear, and has long been championed by me here because of the unique mix of history with a thoroughly modern approach to designing clothes for men. Patrick’s singular vision … Read More »
“I don’t NEED to know what the suits are made of”, commented one female (presumed) journalist on the stairs above The Lincoln Room, deep within The Savoy Hotel, “Well I do, replied her colleague, “I have to write about this stuff!”. Given you’re reading this, I’m sure you’ll agree with me that as men we really do care about what we wear, and whilst certain quarters of the fashion press still think of men’s fashion needs in the third person, with men to be passively shopped for and “kept on trend”, luckily the greater part of the audience for the E.Tautz presentation on Wednesday looked to be much more likeminded, sharing an expectation that we were about to see beautiful menswear and to be educated about it by Patrick Grant.
Menswear Day at London Fashion Week is always a visual feast, as much for the unparalleled opportunity to see dressed up men of all kinds parading Somerset House and it’s environs, as for anything presented more formally by the designers. Some features will follow on collections I’m particularly excited by for SS12, but here are just a few highlights from yesterday.
Spring is here, usually a cue for the fashion media to turn out every seasonal cliche in the book. I’ve lost patience with such writing. No more hackneyed, Enid Blyton-esque descriptions of whatever that season has to offer, be it mellow autumnal fruitfulness, crisp winter mornings or spring springing. Let’s face it, in the UK at least, seasons aren’t really so dissimilar. Whilst snow in August is unlikely, there’s a general blurring between the four, with a tendency to chill and drear. On that note, some spring trends!
Rolled fisherman hats
Rolled fishermen-esque hats were seen everywhere at the AW 11 shows, sometimes surprisingly so. At E.Tautz, they added a rugged, outdoorsy edge to the ever-haute tailoring. Though none seen were lovelier than the cashmere cable-knit hats by Chauncey at The Showroom Next Door. Despite their prominence in the AW lines, as … Read More »
Seven days ago today I was lucky enough to attend the E.Tautz menswear show during London Fashion Week. This season I have deliberately held back from rushing out posts as I wanted to savor what was a joyous day for menswear in London. And the E.Tautz presentation was certainly a highlight worth appreciating over time, as you would wish to linger over a mouthful of good wine before swallowing.
Despite the slight scrum and occasional fashion snarl at the over zealous ROH security staff, we were finally ushered up the plush staircase to the salon-like atmosphere of the aptly named Crush Room. Under the refined light from that now much-photographed chandelier the fashion weary crowd were soothed by piano music and the promise of elegance.
Patrick announced that he would not be talking through each look during this presentation (and judging by … Read More »