Category: Designer profiles
Marsèll – how a tough-looking capsule collection for Mr Porter got me excited about Italian-made shoes all over again
It’s been a good old while, and fittingly my return to blogging is on the subject of shoes, a subject in which I have a perennial interest and am always happy to be associated with.
Mr Porter bravely declared itself the home of the world’s best shoes recently, and a well-lubricated event at their Westfield HQ demonstrated their handle on high-end footwear, from the trad to the defiantly un-trad (hello Rick Owens futurist trainers). Among the exclusives on offer (an impressive list: Grenson, Officine Creative, Filling Pieces, Neil Barrett, Christopher Kane and more) I came across the Marsèll brand for the first time, specifically in the form of an impressive pair of black boots, featuring a distinguished contrast between two very differently-treated leathers.
Sharpened Lead favourite Wooyoungmi has been added to the impressive roster at OKINI for AW15 and to celebrate the launch an interview with the mother and daughter designers is live on OKINI.
Having perused the collection up close at Starworks press day a few months back I strongly recommend closer inspection, the deep colour palette, elaborate paneling and sense of warmth and luxury are qualities we can all relate to once the evenings start drawing in.
The family of Belgian designer Dries Van Noten has been dressing the people of Antwerp for three generations, and now the work of its most famous son is being celebrated in Paris.
Strictly speaking, the Dries Van Noten exhibition, which opened in Paris on Saturday, is not a retrospective. We were told at the exhibition’s opening in Musée des Arts Decoratifs not to expect the Belgian designer’s career highlights, but that the show would instead reveal the creative process. The exhibition begins with the designer’s initial inspirations, by way of a room celebrating various artists through song and film titles, album covers and pieces by fashion designers of the 70s and 80s. The room emphasises the inter-connectedness of fashion within the greater cultural picture, and also gives an impression of the pivotal creative times that Van Noten emerged … Read More »
Sneak peaks of what’s to come at New York Fashion Week have started to surface, and, as ever with New York menswear, nothing bubbles more provocatively than a Duckie Brown collection. Emerging yesterday, this video, replete with the couple’s dry humour, announced that the Duckies will also be showing womenswear this season. As the video says, having produced a label for 12 years showing menswear based on womenswear, the Duckie’s will finally be showing womenswear for women this season. While I will (slightly) miss the audacity of their menswear flying solo in the face of American conservatism, at least with a women’s line on board their mastery of fashion design and craft may be more fully appreciated. And I’m sure the menswear will still have the kick of a potent martini.
Next up in my previews with London designers presenting next week is Baartmans and Siegel. Amber and Wouter kindly took some time out from polishing what is always one of the capital’s most desirable collections to speak to me about their inspiration and some of the unique flavours we can expect this season.
SL: What was your inspiration for Baartmans and Siegel AW14?
B&S: This season we are looking at the feeling of “stealth” and its masculine-evoking energy. Ice, bleak climates and layered silhouettes.The blurred dark depths of internal male emotion – all those blurred shadows and dark patches of your mind that generate the urge for tactile, insular comfor. A man seeking out sensory nourishment.
Wishing to continue our exploration and signature homage to the broad spectrum of navy and inky tones that belong to menswear, we have included many of … Read More »
London Collections: Men is back on Monday, making a rudely early start to the fashion year. Which means that while most of the the nation was sleeping off a holiday hangover, designers have been back at work for some time already, perfecting their menswear collections with barely a Chocolate Orange to compensate their pain.
SL: What was your inspiration for Lou Dalton AW14?
LD:A raw young farm hand, innocent and bleak, working the land.
SL: Describe the vibe of the collection in five choice words. … Read More »
On Friday, the exhibition Hello My Name is Paul Smith opened at The Design Museum on London’s South Bank and I was lucky enough to be there. A press release I’d seen showed images of the creative chaos of Smith’s office, apparently moved wholesale into the stark focus of The Design Museum’s white space, consisting of countless inspirational objects, art works and bits of stuff. Aside from this, I wasn’t sure what to expect. Would there be actual clothes? Or, being The Design Museum, would there be a contrary focus on Paul Smith’s non-fashion work: from vehicles to furniture and other objects? As it turns out, his fashion work is reviewed as a whole: from the origins of Smith’s’ global business in a single, modest Nottingham shop space, to the scale of … Read More »
A big part of the experience of attending fashion shows is the music. Sometimes it’s because the choice is so unexpected and brilliant (like Marc Jacobs using the theme music to Jaws at his latest women’s show for example) or because a whole genre or era emerges as the soundtrack to an entire week of shows in a city (hip hop at the recent men’s shows in New York, post punk and early rave at the most recent LC:M). Fashion shows are fleeting, despite the huge number of people involved, the sets, the lighting and a cast of beautiful models, it’s the music that brings it all together.
One of the joys of being involved in men’s fashion is being able to have meaningful conversations with people about clothes that go well beyond a personal shopping agenda. And this morning at the launch of Hostem’s Bespoke offering there was much to learn and discuss with some of London’s most talented artisan menswear designers, including Sharpened Lead favourite Casely Hayford and master shoemaker Sebastian Tarek.
Through the pioneering Redchurch Street boutique, Casely-Hayford are offering made-to-measure suits and shirts, with prices (for a suit) starting at an approachable £1200. As Charlie was keen to remind us, the benefit of something made to measure is that it will be created to accommodate the quirks of an individual body (we all have them, … Read More »
At the start of New York Fashion Week I caught up with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox as they were preparing to present first their own Duckie Brown line and then a few days later, their Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection. As ever, it’s a fascinating insight into the world of Duckie Brown.
Words with Daniel on the eve of Duckie Brown’s show in New York.
Words with Steven on the eve of Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown in New York.
Read my Duckie Brown collection review here, Perry Ellis will follow shortly.