Category: Collection review


Wooyoungmi joins OKINI

Posted on 31st July, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear. No Comments

Sharpened Lead favourite Wooyoungmi has been added to the impressive roster at OKINI for AW15 and to celebrate the launch an interview with the mother and daughter designers is live on OKINI.

Having perused the collection up close at Starworks press day a few months back I strongly recommend closer inspection, the deep colour palette, elaborate paneling and sense of warmth and luxury are qualities we can all relate to once the evenings start drawing in.


Up close with Matthew Miller’s AW14 collection

Posted on 28th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review. No Comments

Matthew Miller’s collection was a big highlight of London Collections: Men for me a couple of months back, and as the private orders/sales/re-see season came around I was very keen to see it up close. In particular, the intriguing textured material produced with Danish fabric experts Kvadrat demanded to be touched. So last week I headed over to a studio in Soho to see the collection up close and grab a feel of that fancy fabric. And I was not disappointed: at close range it delights your sense of touch, like the kind of very expensive upholstery you might stroke in an uber chic hotel or furniture showroom. On the body meanwhile, it feels surprisingly light; the bulk of the fabric making the constructed form stand away from … Read More »


Duckie Brown, AW14: The Duckie Has Two Faces

Posted on 9th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Duckie Brown, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

My support of Duckie Brown is no secret, their studio was among the first I visited for Sharpened Lead and I love the fact that their vision is so oppositional to most of what can be seen in New York in terms of men’s fashion. As I reported earier this week, the Duckies presented womenswear alongside the menswear for AW14 which feels like a natural progression of the constant gender boundary-pushing within their work. I can see that a Duckie Brown women’s line could be a big hit, arguably there are more fashionable women in New York who know of and celebrate the duo as … Read More »


Paris menswear reviews: Kenzo AW14

Posted on 19th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review. 2 Comments

Workwear’s influence on high fashion is one of those trends that required a few spins on the fashion turntable before its real impact has taken hold. For one, it needed to shrug off the associations of the overly-earnest workwear enthusiast, or more recent re-treads of such classic looks being rehashed as “heritage”. Extending London’s menswear runways’ current love affair with the boys from the blackstuff, at Kenzo in Paris yesterday the workwear/industrial aesthetic was blown up to new proportions with a three-dimensional sense of fun typical of Humberto Leon and Carol Lim’s vision. Balanced by a solid palette of greys, black and brown, accented with acid lime (shouting as loudly as hazard tape) and orchid purples, familiar shapes such as tough steelworker bombers, factory-floor shirt-jackets and straight legged pants were given an avant-garde twist. Of particular note were the tailored … Read More »


Yohji Yamamoto at LN-CC: music for runways

Posted on 23rd September, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear. No Comments

A big part of the experience of attending fashion shows is the music. Sometimes it’s because the choice is so unexpected and brilliant (like Marc Jacobs using the theme music to Jaws at his latest women’s show for example) or because a whole genre or era emerges as the soundtrack to an entire week of shows in a city (hip hop at the recent men’s shows in New York, post punk and early rave at the most recent LC:M). Fashion shows are fleeting, despite the huge number of people involved, the sets, the lighting and a cast of beautiful models, it’s the music that brings it all together.

Records of these rarified occasions do exist though, and in an attempt to open up one such archive, LN-CC, (Late Night Chameleon Cafe), the unique online store with a … Read More »


Lookbook review: Peter Jensen SS14 menswear, Q&A

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear. No Comments

Peter Jensen‘s collection for next Spring/Summer is inspired by fallen Hollywood star and socialite Paulette Goddard and her milieu, including one Andy Warhol. The women’s resort collection was photographed alongside the SS14 menswear, including some stunning images of a young Goddard-like socialite and her friend Mr Warhol, admirably played here by young models. The menswear is made up of simple separates bridging the gap between downtown daywear and clothes for that upscale loft party later. The colour palette spans Pop Art brights and strong monochromes (reminiscent of Andy’s screenprints).

“I like the idea of this chic old lady sitting smoking at Studio 54, dressed in Pop Art colours, telling everybody how rich she is and that she used to be a famous movie star.” 

Intrigued by those lookbook images I asked Peter … Read More »


In review: backstage at E.Tautz SS14

Posted on 1st July, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

It’s not often I let the pictures do the talking (in fact, I’d argue that menswear currently has way too much much image sharing and not enough good writing), but reviewing these backstage pics from the E.Tautz SS14 show a couple of weeks ago now, I’m struck by the way the images tell the story in their own right.

While focusing on the hair and make up by Toni & Guy and the Vidal Sassoon teams, the photos here also show the build up to the boys getting into their first outfits. I’ve been backstage at an E.Tautz show before and am always impressed by Patrick‘s calm … Read More »


Agi & Sam’s collection for Topman: presenting “The Owls”

Posted on 11th May, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear, On the Radar. No Comments

Designers Agi & Sam whose collections have generated huge excitement during the last two London menswear weeks, are about to release a 20 piece collection for Topman.  The collection takes the idea of a kit for an imaginary football team: “The Owls” as a starting point, but goes beyond sportswear to includes shirting and tailoring in a mix of strong, blocked colours and the designers’ signature all over digital prints. Whilst I personally, may be entirely immune to the charms of football, I am very excited about design talent like Agi & Sam and what they say about London’s buoyant menswear scene.

I like to think that there are many out there who’ve now picked up on the buzz about the … Read More »


Lookbook review: Peter Jensen’s Arne Jacobsen-inspired menswear

Posted on 8th May, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear. 1 Comment

Fashion and furniture aren’t usually spoken about in the same breath,  which is surprising as an interest in clothing and accessories often translates into the priorities you have for your living space. Just think about photographer Todd Selby‘s excursions into the stylish homes of global creatives, Backyard Bill‘s glimpses into the enviable living spots of Brooklyn’s fashion types and what they both tell us about how those people live now. Half a century ago, the focus was on then modern designers like Charles and Ray Eames as exemplars of a stylish way of living. Picking up this theme, London-based designer Peter Jensen has taken inspiration from fellow Dane, architect and designer Arne Jacobsen, he of the classic Egg, Swan and … Read More »


Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown SS13 Campaign

Posted on 8th March, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear. No Comments

With fashion’s time machine set on AW13, it’s been all about winter recently, both in terms of the view out of the window and what we’re aspiring to wear in a year’s time. So it’s easy to forget that we’ve yet to experience Spring/Summer 13 and I’m now looking forward to putting to the test some of my predictions and advanced purchases as the days gradually get longer.

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