Category: London Fashion Week

The Showroom Next Door: Casely-Hayford, Chauncey, Armando Cabral

Posted on 14th March, by Colin Chapman in Knitwear, London Fashion Week, menswear, menswear day, Shorts, wool. 2 Comments

No London Fashion Week is complete without a visit to the peerless Showroom Next Door. Run with charming hospitality and a killer eye for beautiful, individual clothing by the Dover Street Market-connected Touba Distribution. The selections available during the most recent Fashion Week, in February were particularly strong. Now in a new location, though still within refined Mayfair, a visit to the Showroom combines the exclusivity of a salon with the informality of the best of boutique shopping.

LFW menswear day review #4: Tween

Posted on 10th March, by Colin Chapman in London Fashion Week, menswear, menswear day. No Comments

Tween was an unexpected highlight of menswear day this year. Perking up the fashion weary at literally the closing show of Fashion Week, with a collection that was impressive both in the number of looks and the savvy combination of tailoring with outdoorsy details like quilting and waxed cottons. The elegant menswear on show suggested that the Turkish designer was well attuned to the English context of the show. I hate the term ‘one to watch’ but nevertheless: Gunes Guner Işık is one to watch.

LFW Menswear day reviews #3: George, the Dragon and The Red Lion too: Heraldic knitwear at Sibling

Posted on 6th March, by Colin Chapman in Knitwear, London Fashion Week, menswear, menswear day. 1 Comment

As if Shoreditch’s George & Dragon needed any more legendariness, Sibling’s film for their 6th collection features a cluster of likely lads downing pints at the Hackney Road institution. This time around the knitwear features emblems familiar through pub signage: Red Lions, George & Dragons and, in a typically perverse touch, pandas, a cute take on the Mexican wrestler mask complete with panda ears. With a soundtrack provided by Jerry Bouthier of Boombox fame, including a track by The Fall, Sibling make evident their connections with the coolest corners of London’s fashion circles.

LFW Menswear day reviews #2: E.Tautz

Posted on 2nd March, by Colin Chapman in E.Tautz, London Fashion Week, menswear, menswear day. No Comments

Seven days ago today I was lucky enough to attend the E.Tautz menswear show during London Fashion Week. This season I have deliberately held back from rushing out posts as I wanted to savor what was a joyous day for menswear in London. And the E.Tautz presentation was certainly a highlight worth appreciating over time, as you would wish to linger over a mouthful of good wine before swallowing.

Despite the slight scrum and occasional fashion snarl at the over zealous ROH security staff, we were finally ushered up the plush staircase to the salon-like atmosphere of the aptly named Crush Room. Under the refined light from that now much-photographed chandelier the fashion weary crowd were soothed by piano music and the promise of elegance.

Patrick announced that he would not be talking through each look during this presentation (and judging by … Read More »

LFW Menswear day reviews #1: J.W. Anderson; androgynous insects from Kreuzberg

Posted on 24th February, by Colin Chapman in J.W. Anderson, London Fashion Week, menswear, menswear day. 1 Comment

J.W Anderson, The Fear of Naturalism, mens AW 11 collection

The 9am slot is notoriously difficult, fashion people not being known for a love of morning appointments but J.W. Anderson drop kicked us into the day with a show simmering with subversive elements.

As seats filled, the audio atmospherics popped and fizzed like a forest at dawn, the sound of a legion of insects about to invade. A swirl of cold wintry sound and ‘Eisbaer’, an anthem of the early 80s Neue Deutsche Welle by Swiss band Grauzone, kicked in. Transferring us instantly to the free zone of 1980s Kreuzberg squats, and a time when people reveled in the opportunity to tear things up and start again.

In the notes for this collection Anderson stated that his intention was to. Androgynous insect boys strode out in slim fitting but multi-layered combinations, their overall silhouttes resembling stick insects or mantes. Hair was uniformly short and rigidly groomed, a very Berlin combination of regulation and punk attitude.

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