Category: London Collections: Men


Ratty threads: what I loved about Kit Neale AW14

Posted on 16th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. No Comments

For the two previous seasons of LCM I’ve had the pleasure of dropping into the Kit Neale studio to get an insight into the brand’s inspirations as designers and to see the collection come together, becoming addicted in the process to the Kit Neale pop-art-coloured view of the world. Conflicting schedules meant previews didn’t happen for me this season so I had the quite different excitement of seeing the collection fresh out of the box. For AW14, inspiration shifted (via a quick shunt up the Old Kent Road) from the world of Peckham chicken shops and weave salons to the terminally-in-demise Elephant & Castle shopping centre. Displayed on piles of iconic debris, … Read More »


Rakish progress: 5 things I loved about E.Tautz AW14

Posted on 16th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

There was always a sense of history and storytelling in E.Tautz, from the intimate days when Patrick talked us through the collection to more recent shows in the vast space of The Old Sorting Office. In that more intimate past the story was often in the fabrication itself and needed to be interpreted or, better still, touched for the specialness of the pieces to be really understood. Backstories of the home knitters, the mills, the history of a fabric like Ventile were an essential part of the E.Tautz DNA then but recent collections have had a more wide-screen appeal, both in the presentation on a big stage and the literal impact of the clothing. A commenter on my Guardian-published round-up last week … Read More »


Sunglasses at night: 5 things I loved about Casely-Hayford AW14

Posted on 14th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

To say the Casely-Hayford runway show was anticipated would be an understatement. Not since Agi & Sam’s transitional MAN show has The Old Sorting Office venue felt like such a stadium: a home crowd eager to be entertained by beloved sons (and fathers).  And we were not  to be disappointed. When I spoke to Charlie back in November there was understandable apprehension about their runway debut but last week the execution was perfect. All the trademark Casely-Hayford qualities were there: elegant tailoring, an inherent understanding of current street demeanor, sporty details, confident colour and above all, a sense of London menswear’s past and present glories coming together under a single flag. When asked about the scene and designers who might appeal to those who don’t live … Read More »


In review: backstage at E.Tautz SS14

Posted on 1st July, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

It’s not often I let the pictures do the talking (in fact, I’d argue that menswear currently has way too much much image sharing and not enough good writing), but reviewing these backstage pics from the E.Tautz SS14 show a couple of weeks ago now, I’m struck by the way the images tell the story in their own right.

While focusing on the hair and make up by Toni & Guy and the Vidal Sassoon teams, the photos here also show the build up to the boys getting into their first outfits. I’ve been backstage at an E.Tautz show before and am always impressed by Patrick‘s calm … Read More »


It’s more than just clothes: LC:M SS14 on my mind

Posted on 20th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

During the packed schedule at three days of London Collections: Men, it’s easy for things to start to blur but certain experiences stay with you. And it’s not just about the clothes. The spectacle and theatre of catwalk and installations creates powerful moments when music, space, lighting and a load of beautiful-looking people are brought together for a few dazzling minutes. Here are some of the things I’m mulling over now the shows and presentations are over.

Denim
LC:M is memorable for more than what is presented on the catwalk. With hundreds of stylish buyers, journalists, editors and bloggers on show for three days, it’s a perfect opportunity to see what men in the industry are actually wearing. One note I picked up on was a certain relaxed, less buttoned-up approach to dressing (lets ignore the truckloads of pocket squares for now), … Read More »


LC:M SS14, In the studio with Kit Neale

Posted on 15th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, On the Radar, Studio Visit. 1 Comment

Last season I met up with Kit Neale, in his studio off Kingsland Road in central East London, to discuss his then upcoming collection for Fashion East, one of London’s menswear’s best regarded platforms for emerging fashion talent. Known for his punchy prints, which have incorporated seafood and allotment vegetables amongst other motifs, I was curious to learn whether Kit was at all worried that fashion’s love affair with print had reached its zenith.

Six months later, I’m back in Kit’s studio: there are are fresh moodboards and sketches all over the … Read More »


A whole month of menswear: my AW13 wish list

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, Wishlist. No Comments

In less than a Manhattan minute, the menswear shows will be happening in New York, bringing a month of men’s fashion to a close. And what a month it’s been! Even if you didn’t get to attend the shows in person, in 2013 you could sit ‘front row’ in the comfort of your own living room with the major presentations (Prada, Louis Vuitton etc) being streamed live, and unprecedented coverage in the press and digital media. For designers, now is when the real work starts: selling their cherished designs to the buyers that matter and getting the right press.

A good moment then, to pause and sift through it all. And with personal orders events cropping up as designers return to London, it’s time to make some decisions.


Martine Rose, AW13: look back in detail

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

In fashion terms, London Collections Men AW13 is already history. Perception of what we saw here in early January has shifted and re-positioned itself around the wider context of menswear globally, now that Milan, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen and (imminently) New York have had their say. But the real work for designers has only just started in terms of sales and production, and there’s still the big question (for those not involved in stocking a boutique or planning editorial shoots for later in the year at least) of what to wear NOW, with a seasonal climate shift approaching.

It’s also a great time to pick over images from the shows for missed or forgotten moments. By now, the photos themselves have significance as a record of an ‘event’. As well as the clothes themselves: who was there? were they looking bored/scared/intrigued? The … Read More »


Meadham Kirchhoff men’s AW13: bin bags and Byronic dandies

Posted on 20th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

“It’s finished,” said the bouncer on the door at Meadham Kirchhoff’s AW13 menswear presentation, “You missed it by 30 seconds.” “Can I go and look at the debris?”, I replied, having noticed the stacks of bin bags making up the set, hinting at something quite apocalyptic inside. Flashing an obviously rare smile, he stepped back to let me in.

I was fortunate: the models were still standing in place to facilitate a last-minute photo shoot, the designers themselves passing me on their way out. Meadham Kirchhoff’s presentation last season was my favourite experience at the first London Collections: Men, hence my keenness not to miss the follow up. That mad squat filled with the scent of over-blown blooms, boys with pink hair and visibly alarmed fashion editors keeping … Read More »


Agi and Sam AW13: like classic portraiture come to life in Disney colours

Posted on 17th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 2 Comments

So much has already been said about Agi & Sam‘s collection shown as part of MAN AW13, or more accurately, has been shared. Images of designers Patrick Grant and William R. Green rouged-up and walking in the show, the basset hounds! the Marquess of Bath-alike! all proved infinitely shareable as a delighted crowd were caught up in the infectious buzz and sense of fun and got busy with social media.

But in reviewing the images again now, what strikes me is what an elegant and grown up collection it is. “We tried so hard to mature the collection without losing the fun” said they duo as I offered my congratulations after the show. And that effort really comes across. As a development from last season their use of colour and print is much more precise, the overall … Read More »

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