Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow presented a subversive and very European spin on classic layers at Milk on Sunday. The blazers, signature biker jackets, mesh layers and and big kudos for the solid-colour white and navy Doc Marten shoes.
One of the strongest looks, all white, featuring layered hems and a beautiful padded biker gilet.
Rochambeau, presentation Sunday 9 September
One of the benefits of the scrum of menswear day at Milk studios was being able to sneak into neighbouring presentations. I’m so glad I did when it came to Rochambeau. An impactful presentation inspired by the … Read More »
Over the summer I’ve been meeting up with designers who presented, in my view, a really exceptional collection during the London Collections: Men weekend in June, to find out the story behind the collection, and the mind that created it.
Omar Kashoura is a designer whose work I’ve admired for some time, as a creator of genuinely elegant clothing for men. Attending one of his presentations for the first time was a definite highlight of the Collections for me, and I’m really thrilled to be including him in this series of conversations.
There’s less than two weeks to go now until New York fashion week, and I’m thrilled to be attending again and in particular to be there for the Duckie Brown show on 6 September.
A year ago I had the great opportunity to interview Steven and Daniel in their studio, and was very impressed by their openness to discuss their work and lives together. The SS12 Duckie collection was beautiful and thought-provoking, epitomised by the ‘bruised rose’ prints on track-suit shapes, drawing a tense line between perceived masculinities. The subsequent Autumn/Winter collection was full of a darker, countercultural introspection. If the invite is anything to go by, SS13 is going to be full … Read More »
It’s reached that point in the week after the menswear shows when reportage needs to switch over into analysis. As atmospheric as the shows can be, at some point it’s necessary to start to filter, retaining only the really memorable and striking. Which makes it an ideal moment to talk about Lou Dalton‘s collection for Spring/Summer 13. This was a perfectly edited collection: simple shapes, a handful of great colours and materials, no fuss, no ephemeral fluff or unnecessary detail. Which feels exactly right for menswear. As Lou hinted at in our pre-collection interview a couple of weeks ago, the collection was inspired by the underdog. This struck me as a continuing theme in Lou’s work; in previous collections we’ve seen looks inspired by Romany cardsharks and by young men piecing together … Read More »
When it comes to fashion, I do love a story. A narrative that draws everything together and sets both a tone for viewing the clothes as well as a sense of when and how they should be worn. And Omar Kashoura is one of the best fashion storytellers out there. Continuing his exploration of The Beats, Kashoura’s setting this time was Black Rock Desert and yesterday he got all the details right in a collection full of the dramatic colours of the desert: from the evocative, hand written invite on monogrammed notepaper stating simply “Meet me at Christopher’s at 10:00 Hours”, to the scent of burning, fragrant wood at the show itself. It was a supremely elegant collection: recognisably Kashoura but moving the story forward in the same manner as a gifted writer might. As a self … Read More »
As part of my countdown to the Collections: Men I’ve been speaking to some of my favourite designers in London this week, capturing a quick snapshot of their thoughts leading up to the big event. First up is Sharpened Lead standard Lou Dalton. Lou recently won NewGen Men funding allowing her to develop her established salon presentation into a fully-fledged catwalk show. Lou’s last collection presentation was a triumph, not just for beatiful clothes, but in fusing a real narrative with rousing music and some rather special hats.
Four questions for Lou Dalton:
1. SL: Congratulations on the recent NewGen Men sponsorship: what difference does it make to you? What is the impact of such sponsorship?
LD: A huge difference, I have a very tight cashflow, which although we are now gaining momentum is getting slightly healthier it still … Read More »
Menswear Day is always a sensory overload: with catwalk shows, presentations, installations, chance meetings, not to mention encounters with streetstyle photographers and the bundles of press releases and free papers one inevitably returns home with all jostling for headspace. So, looking back over the day’s events, captured on iPhone, camera and in memory, surprises often surface, alongside clear recollections of what went by. Here are a few of my favourite moments from yesterday, captured at the quieter points in the day.
1. Backstage at the E.Tautz run through, a model in his own clothes but groomed to perfection by Toni & Guy practises his paces.
2. The latest fabrications from Sharpened Lead favourite, Marwood ties. I wasn’t at all surprised to hear that these speckled fabrics have been first to catch the eyes of discerning Fashion Week attendees.
3. The Fashion East installations never fail to surprise and provide specatacle. Here a frosty-looking model at L.Ipop brings a touch of Arctic explorer to the inside of Somerset House.
4. I was very happy to see this Sibling blend of fair isle and leopard print up close after being wowed by Paris Fashion Week photos and have a chat with Cozette about another adventurous video installation from the trio.