Category: Studio Visit
Last season I met up with Kit Neale, in his studio off Kingsland Road in central East London, to discuss his then upcoming collection for Fashion East, one of London’s menswear’s best regarded platforms for emerging fashion talent. Known for his punchy prints, which have incorporated seafood and allotment vegetables amongst other motifs, I was curious to learn whether Kit was at all worried that fashion’s love affair with print had reached its zenith.
Six months later, I’m back in Kit’s studio: there are are fresh moodboards and sketches all over the … Read More »
At the start of New York Fashion Week I caught up with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox as they were preparing to present first their own Duckie Brown line and then a few days later, their Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection. As ever, it’s a fascinating insight into the world of Duckie Brown.
Words with Daniel on the eve of Duckie Brown’s show in New York.
Words with Steven on the eve of Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown in New York.
Read my Duckie Brown collection review here, Perry Ellis will follow shortly.
In New York later this afternoon, Duckie Brown will present their second collection for Perry Ellis. Whilst PE might be little known to Brits (aside from vaguely remembered billboard ads from that New York trip), as I’ve informed before, the brand is a mainstay at the more MOR department stores in the States. And last season, the Duckies blew the dust off Perry Ellis with a spirited re-visioning of the brand’s familiar khaki and signature polka dots.
Later today, Duckie Brown will present their AW13 Collection. Always a highlight of New York Fashion Week for me, I love how their uncompromising vision of menswear confronts the more ‘buttoned up’ notions of masculinity being presented elsewhere in the City. With not one but two collections to prepare (their menswear line for Perry Ellis will be shown next week), not to mention their ongoing collaboration with shoemakers Florsheim, you could say the Duckies are busy. Here are some reminders of recent collections, interspersed with some questions I managed to fire at the guys in the last week. And to heighten the suspense, those intriguing posters from around town and the ‘Duckyl’ flyer for today’s show.
SL: Your last Duckie collection (SS13) was described as being quite “tough” with lots of … Read More »
It’s not often I feel overwhelmed after leaving a designer’s studio but my visit to Baartmans and Siegel before Christmas left me reeling slightly from all the luxury and the amazing materials I’d touched. Maybe it had something to do with Amber insisting I try much of the collection on, which meant I felt the weight, the comfort and the sheer sensual pleasure of wearing such beautiful clothes and connecting with them off the rail.
I love meeting designers who are very inspired by what they do, and Baartmans and Siegel are clearly very inspired. For designers whose backgrounds span Marc Jacobs and Viktor and Rolf they remain affable, approachable and clearly in love with their craft. The details of our chat ranged from scratch and sniff cherry fragrance to Amber’s love of Jeff Bridges, and the fashion-y pleasures of a perfect gliding zip, quality buttons and the production of yak wool.
As anticipation starts to build for the second London Collections: Men in January, I will be speaking to some of the talent that makes London menswear so exciting, bringing you designer and industry insider insights from behind the collections.
Here I speak to Kit Neale, about his Michael Clark fixation, and the showroom/studio space he’s just opened off Hackney Road.
SL: Tell me about the showroom space…
Kit Neale: We’ve been here about 3 weeks, we moved from Hackney, the depths of Hackney. Menswear is so different from womenswear, men want to have that rapport I think; womenswear like the ‘mystique’ of it all. The decision was to set up a space, have a rapport and be able to set the tone for the brand, visually, and … Read More »
Over the summer I’ve been meeting up with designers who presented, in my view, a really exceptional collection during the London Collections: Men weekend in June, to find out the story behind the collection, and the mind that created it.
Omar Kashoura is a designer whose work I’ve admired for some time, as a creator of genuinely elegant clothing for men. Attending one of his presentations for the first time was a definite highlight of the Collections for me, and I’m really thrilled to be including him in this series of conversations.
Next up in my conversations with exceptional designers from London Collections: Men is Lou Dalton. I caught up with Lou at her studio in Spitalfields last week. This was my third opportunity to get up close with her SS13 collection, which I’d first encountered in a showroom, just hours after her show, then, a week before our chat, I’d had the opportunity to try on some of the beautiful tailored pieces featuring panels of sports mesh from SS13 at a private orders night. It’s easy to see why this collection was the perfect opener to The London Collections: Men and went on to be so well received by the international press. The simple lines, solid palette of black, navy, stone and wine and the signature Dalton fusion of tailoring and technical sportswear told a story that was immediately discernible, needing … Read More »
Since London Collections: Men, I’ve been out visiting some of my favourite menswear designers; taking a second look at the SS13 collections and finding out more about the people that created them. T.Lipop caught my eye last season, with a dramatic AW12 presentation at Somerset House, apparently inspired by Scott of the Antarctic, featuring models with frosty beards and brows, in rugged outerwear, sternly gazing out as if from the polar ice floes. As I’m fond of saying, I love a collection with a narrative, a proper story, and T.Lipop struck me as a brand able to spin a good yarn or two.
This time the story is about colour: the brilliant Mexican-Day-of-the-Dead-meets-LA-gang-aesthetic tableau vivant presentation at Fashion East was a definite highlight of my first day there (I went back on Sunday for the now legendary Meadham … Read More »