“I don’t NEED to know what the suits are made of”, commented one female (presumed) journalist on the stairs above The Lincoln Room, deep within The Savoy Hotel, “Well I do, replied her colleague, “I have to write about this stuff!”. Given you’re reading this, I’m sure you’ll agree with me that as men we really do care about what we wear, and whilst certain quarters of the fashion press still think of men’s fashion needs in the third person, with men to be passively shopped for and “kept on trend”, luckily the greater part of the audience for the E.Tautz presentation on Wednesday looked to be much more likeminded, sharing an expectation that we were about to see beautiful menswear and to be educated about it by Patrick Grant.
Menswear Day at London Fashion Week is always a visual feast, as much for the unparalleled opportunity to see dressed up men of all kinds parading Somerset House and it’s environs, as for anything presented more formally by the designers. Some features will follow on collections I’m particularly excited by for SS12, but here are just a few highlights from yesterday.
Something has to be done about the tucked into boots look. Even as one of the original tuckers I take no responsibility for it. But as young British men continue to dress (literally) like an All Saints shop window dummy, the trend must die. Don’t get me wrong, compared to some of the trouser outrages of recent decades (trailing, frayed boot cut denim anyone?) the slim jean tucked into boot is merely a miscreant. And I’ve already seen the answer: the slim, cropped trouser with a deep turn-up worn with high, laced-up boots. Remarkably, the wonderful Duckie Brown were prescient enough to show this exact look over 2 years ago in their Fall 2010 collection. I’ve already spotted a few scions of the future wearing it on the streets of E2 (cord over brogued boots seems to be popular option). And it’s one solution to how to wear your cropped, rolled trousers now that the weather’s gone parky and showing your ankles isn’t so appealing.
I suggest you stick to classic pant styles: think flat-fronted with side angled front pockets in solid, earthy colours and have a tailor create a generous turn-up for you. And they really don’t have to be bovver boy, drainpipe tight.
With the British summer proving to be as unpredictable as the will-they-won’t-they negotiations that just ended at No. 10, its best to plan for everything and be a man for all seasons. Here are some current favourites from what’s in stores right now. As a new touch, each pick is partnered with suggested reading, viewing or listening. It’s all about the inspiration, right?
There’s a whole lot of grey marl going on out there (unfortunately a bit too much of it in Essex). But I’ve always been a fan of the plain sweatshirt, especially when the shape is right. When you just want a really good look and to stay warm, you can’t go wrong. Plain clothing can also be a very stylish approach to wearing colour, such as a strong red sweatshirt paired with quality blue denim like Read More »
Thai fisherman pants, those wrap-waisted drop crotch comfort pants have long been beloved by backpackers and Sanctuary afficionados, but they’re also starting to creep into fashion. And no, that’s not just me imagining Thai influences in my post-holiday daze. Last summer saw fisherman-style wrapped shorts at Unconditional (as posted about by me in Brandish) and then there’s these lovelies by Harmon. I’ve only managed to find these Stateside so far, at Oak but please do tell me I’m wrong if you know of a UK stockist. I love the combination of that military-green (SO now!) with the casual wrap style.