London’s finest interviewed: E.Tautz
With less than a week to go now until the launch of London Collections: Men, it seems very fitting to be posting about the house of E.Tautz and it’s designer, Patrick Grant. Last season I witnessed Patrick backstage, remarkably calm whilst models took their final walks (hairclips still in place) and this sense of quiet yet purposeful confidence is a great sentiment I think to be carrying forward as next week’s schedule kicks in. E.Tautz would inevitably end up on any list I drew up of the best of London menswear, and has long been championed by me here because of the unique mix of history with a thoroughly modern approach to designing clothes for men. Patrick’s singular vision for using only the very best materials and craftsmanship (and educating the rest of us about them) makes him an ideal ambassador for Britain’s menswear industry. And, who wouldn’t want to dress as impeccably as Patrick if only they could?
1. SL: Congratulations on winning the Fashion Forward initiative. What in particular will it enable you to do with E.Tautz? How does it change the picture for you as a brand?
PG: I never thought of Tautz as a tailoring brand but when I re-started it we sat physically within Norton & Sons on Savile Row, our first few collections were filled with tailoring and tweeds and so it wasn’t a stupid assumption to make but it was never our intention. I see Tautz as a sportswear house, and this award I think helps people understand us a little better, maybe see differently where we fit in Londons fashion landscape.
2. SL: For newcomers to E.Tautz, is there a signature piece that best represents what you do?
PG: I hope that we are developing a signature style but there is no signature piece. In my mind it revolves around a simplicity of cut and beauty in the material and the colour and the execution.
3. SL: Savile Row is being showcased as part of London Collections: Men. Everyone talks about Savile Row’s heritage, but what’s it’s future? What are your best hopes for that tradition?
PG: I think Savile Rows future is certainly an interesting one. In my head its clear what I would like my house to do and that is train our new generation of cutters and tailors to have all of the skills that the current generations have but keep their minds open to the world of menswear that exists around the row, so that they feel free to allow the clothes to evolve. And the street needs to apply all of this skill to great ready to wear, because Asia, Africa and South America are full of opportunity and we need to address this.
4. SL: Without giving the game away, what can we expect to see in this collection from E.Tautz?
PG: The focus is on shape and colour, light layers and bright furnishings.
5. SL: These are exciting times for London menswear. Who is on your radar? Any brands or talent that especially rock your boat?
PG: I think there’s such a great groundswell of talent in London right now its hard to come up with a concise list. I think the New Gen and Fashion Forward recipients are a pretty good place to start.