Omar Kashoura, desert colours for Dharma Bums
When it comes to fashion, I do love a story. A narrative that draws everything together and sets both a tone for viewing the clothes as well as a sense of when and how they should be worn. And Omar Kashoura is one of the best fashion storytellers out there. Continuing his exploration of The Beats, Kashoura’s setting this time was Black Rock Desert and yesterday he got all the details right in a collection full of the dramatic colours of the desert: from the evocative, hand written invite on monogrammed notepaper stating simply “Meet me at Christopher’s at 10:00 Hours”, to the scent of burning, fragrant wood at the show itself. It was a supremely elegant collection: recognisably Kashoura but moving the story forward in the same manner as a gifted writer might. As a self confessed bookworm, I love the literary references in Kashoura’s last two collections. I grew up reading about The Beats, and appreciate the soft edges of Omar’s work, full of the romance of period photographs but never stagey.
In terms of specific pieces, the thick cream herringbone trousers (seen also as a very desirable pair of shorts) are definitely on my wish list for SS13. In fact, overall, the cut of the trousers had it for me. I love trousers with a loose, period feel, something about a pleat and the weight and fluidity of a fine fabric adds a sense of romance to a man’s look. But this was also an utterly contemporary collection in terms of the colour palette, as seen elsewhere this season. Colours like cream, burnt orange, navy and grey suggest a very grown up approach to summer dressing, full of the drama and contrasts of the desert.
My eyes were also drawn to the horsehair details on the shoes, the beautiful hats (continuing the collaboration with Bernstock Speirs) and the styling by Julian Ganio. If there’s one stylist who knows how to make men look manly on the catwalk its Julian Ganio. The extra heft and solidity of some of these models was a welcome contrast to the more waiflike boys around town this weekend, not to mention some fine beards you could lose your hand in.
As the applause faded and people got up to leave the venue, I suddenly struck by how great the music had been (we filed out to Soul Clap’s incredible edit of Baker Man) and checked the credit: Luke Howard. That figures. Again, it was a detail that wrapped up the experience into a delicious whole. Omar Kashoura was one of the standout collections for SS13 for me, and if I was asked who presented genuinely beautiful clothes you would want to wear this weekend, then his name would definitely be mentioned. Only being handed a 10am martini would have made this a more pleasurable experience.
A first sighting of those glorious cream pants.
Tapering pants in a digitally deconstructed, enlarged check suggests fabrics worn away by harsh environments. The round neckline is perfect for a studious Dharma Bum.
A truly Ganio-esque vision of manhood. Crisp navy over sand-coloured pants with a detailed waistband. Thighs as big as your head.
My favourite look from the collection, the same cream fabric in shorts, with an elegant shirt-jacket featuring that incredible deconstructed check. I want this entire look.
Another check with a variation on the cream pants.
An equally elegant navy pant worn with a deep V cable knit sweater, suggestive of sun-bleached denim.
Another fine hat, the graphically segmented yet organic colours balance the more regular print of the shirt.
All show photos courtesy of David Abrahams.