New York Fashion Week Diary: SS13

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in 2013, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow presented a subversive and very European spin on classic layers at Milk on Sunday. The blazers, signature biker jackets, mesh layers and and big kudos for the solid-colour white and navy Doc Marten shoes.

Public School, presentation Sunday 9 September

One of the strongest looks, all white, featuring layered hems and a beautiful padded biker gilet.

The New York Time’s Bruce Pask gets the designer walk-through treatment from Dao-Yi Chow.

The collision of the facial tattoo trend and it-boy model in one person doesn’t detract from this strong tailored jacket.

Rochambeau, presentation Sunday 9 September
One of the benefits of the scrum of menswear day at Milk studios was being able to sneak into neighbouring presentations. I’m so glad I did when it came to Rochambeau. An impactful presentation inspired by the power and threat of the sea, saw models enveloped in sea-mist-like dry ice. Here sandals, and coral-like reds drew the eye, the coral pre-empting the colour of the season (tomato red) yet to be revealed at Patrik Ervel later that night.

The strong coral of these draped, pleated drop-crotch pants drew my eye.

More great sandals from Rochambeau.

General Idea, runway show, Friday 7 September
On Friday, General Ideas “Last of the Lumberjacks” show, featured acid-bright psychedelic hiking gear. The shoes were the big thing, sturdy, outdoorsy shapes with very urban neon flashes. Elswehere, neon green lifted camo into something way more interesting. A full post on this great collection is forthcoming.

At General Idea, rugged, outdoorsy hiking boots were elevated by acid-bright flashes.

Siki Im, runway show, Thursday 6 September 2012
Siki Im’s show was big on atmospherics. A string quartet set the tone before long, flowing almost-clerical pieces in black and white passed by, almost strobe-like. All the boys had the napes of their necks painted with a mud-like paste, summing up the threat of the desert. In a big finish, model Clement Chabernaud led a procession of shirtless boys, wearing beautiful animal skull pendants around the block into daylight (the audience scurrying behind) before heading back to the gloom of backstage. A full post will follow, photo editing pending.

A ghostly shot of models, heading back into the gloom of the Chelsea Piers venue, at Siki Im, Friday.

Duckie Brown, Thursday 6 September 2012

Severely slicked fringes, hand tattoos strong stares were the order of the day at Duckie Brown on Thursday.

Raleigh Denim Presentation, Wednesday 5 September 2012

My first presentation of the week was by Raleigh Denim, who presented a sample of simple yet covetable separates for SS13, extending their repertoire from their cult, aritisinal jeans. The static presentation in a rustic Greenwich Village space was enlivened by the fresh-faced models who would surely rather be dancing than posing. The floral prints were particularly eyecatching, notably as short pants. The simple styling of blazers, plain T’s and suede bucks worn without socks were the epitome of sharp New York summer dressing. A few of the city’s menswear-blogging big-players were in attendance, microbrews were supped and the well groomed crowd were looking well rested this end of fashion week. It could almost have been an English summer garden party, were it not for the steamy Gotham humidity outside.

The simple combination of a blazer, white T, sockless suede bucks and printed shorts is definitive of sharp, New York summer dressing.

The raw edge of the shorts underplays the delicate print (a Ferris Wheel apparently).

The colour of this workwear-inspired, cropped blazer makes it remarkable.

Simple, quality cotton separates (the slim, natural coloured shorts foreground, especially) and more sockless, suede bucks is evocative of the best streetwear I’ve seen this week.

Raleigh Denim have just opened up a statement architect-designed store in Nolita, an especially lovely area of Manhattan. Go visit when you’re in the city.

The Maritime Hotel, pre-Fashion Week, 2-4 September 2012

So, I’m in New York for Fashion Week. September is, usually, such a great time to be here as the weather is generally hotter than London has managed all summer, except that this time it’s also wet, which makes dressing for fashion events a real challenge: wear too much and you’ll resemble a sleazy, sweaty, colonial attach√©; too little and you run the risk of freezing, as the savage air conditioning hits your damp layers. As I said, a challenge.

My first bolthole was the glorious Maritime Hotel in the Meatpacking District, my first stay there. Visiting New York is always such a sensual experience for me, with all the advantages that warm weather provides, and a gazillion opportunities to try new things with every food encounter. Architecturally, also, I find the city has much diversity, with so many surprising spaces hiding behind anonymous facades.

At the Maritime, I loved the seemingly period details (actually the hotel has only been around for a decade) and in particular, the deep, marine blues (befitting the nautical theme of the hotel). Amazing fabrics abound, a few of my favourite details of which follow. I’ll be posting much more in the days to come, not only reports from the shows, presentations and showrooms but also from my further adventures around New York.

The headboard features a denim-like fabric in a butterfly print, reminiscent of Japanese indigo materials.

The fabric of the chairs in the room: a heavy, hessian-like print, would make a super blazer.

An ingenious, giant, padded ‘plug’ in a bold indigo/white striped velvet, fits into the porthole window to block out any unwanted light or sound, (not that, by New York standards, there was any street noise to speak of).

And the plug, in place

Iconic ‘Manhattan’ print fabrics adorn the lobby sofas.

We’ve subsequently relocated to Brooklyn, with more adventures to follow, but the Maritime is definitely on the list of hotels to revisit for future fashion weeks.


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