Tautz by name..
British brand E. Tautz benefits from a name that partially describes what it does – as in being taut, the tension between tradition and something more dangerously stylish. With a venerable Savile Row tradition (‘sporting the Tautz’ was a phrase once associated with such notable wearers as Cary Grant), the brand is one of a generation of W1 tailoring firms re-establishing their relevance.
During LFW they presented a series of looks making their position clear: classic tailoring with elements of British quirkiness. This is real power dressing. Prince of Wales checks, double-breasted blazers and Harris tweeds. Classic dressing can so easily pass over into costume but not here, where the accessories and clear intention make it so relevant for our times.
The Duke of Windsor looms large in ther vision for AW10. A stylish but haunted man hiding the weight of notoriety behind an impeccable appearance, he epitomised that curious mix of frosty, melancholic English glamour.
For me, the tension between trad and surprising in the collection is best summed up by their Harris tweed kilt. No garish plaids here. The masculine skirt benefits from the lack of pattern, somehow seeming more manly. And if it’s not vulgar to mention the idea of a trend in relation to E.Tautz, there’s a certain focus on the blazer with mismatched trousers and a palette that includes a liberal brushstroke of inky, indigo blues.
Moving on, requiring a special mention are the oversized and charmingly described ‘Edinburgh schoolboy scarves’ that are simply a must have for next winter.
I believe we’re experiencing a micro-revival in menswear: no sooner had we grown out our side partings and lost the bow tie than formal elegance catches on again. The oughties are the perfect time to discover not the past but the rich tradition right under our noses. Sometimes being normal is what makes us different. AW10 for me will be all about grown up dressing in beautiful, classic fabrics. As these images show, E. Tautz presented a masterclass in that sentiment this week.