E.Tautz, AW13: revisioning the fabric of Scotland
Patrick Grant’s little talks at the start of each E.Tautz collection are one of the givens of the menswear season in London, bringing a touch of intimacy and old-school charm to the experience of attending a fashion show. Whilst the echoing blank canvas of The Sorting Office space made such a verbal introduction impossible this time, the austerity of the space meant that the AW13 collection was left to create its own sense of drama and occasion. The pacing was unique in the Collections, no straight-out-of-Hackney-Wick striding here, instead there was time for the models (and us) to breathe between looks. A stirring soundtrack – Ultravox’s Vienna was particularly poignant – added to the sense of spaciousness.
Since SS13, E.Tautz feels rejuvenated: more colour, more youthfulness to offset the brand’s heritage. Of-the-moment disheveled schoolboy styling: untucked shirt hems, trousers into socks, some jaunty hats, underlined their relevance. Vivid orange was the big colour story here, a visual counterpoint to the gravity of strong black outlines. Shapes sometimes conveyed a certain ‘swish of the kilt’ in their movement. Blown out of proportion, oversized Argyls, checks and tartans became abstract, the orange more a reflection of rusting steel than anything inappropriately tropical in a collection inspired by a view of of Scotland as unsentimental as a Martin Parr photograph.
Here are a few of my favourite looks from the collection, selected not only because I’d like to wear them, but also because they convey the colour and the extraordinary styling so well.