Martine Rose, AW13: look back in detail

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

In fashion terms, London Collections Men AW13 is already history. Perception of what we saw here in early January has shifted and re-positioned itself around the wider context of menswear globally, now that Milan, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen and (imminently) New York have had their say. But the real work for designers has only just started in terms of sales and production, and there’s still the big question (for those not involved in stocking a boutique or planning editorial shoots for later in the year at least) of what to wear NOW, with a seasonal climate shift approaching.

It’s also a great time to pick over images from the shows for missed or forgotten moments. By now, the photos themselves have significance as a record of an ‘event’. As well as the clothes themselves: who was there? were they looking bored/scared/intrigued? The pace of fashion is so fast that even a few weeks can seem significant, so many details overlooked or to be enjoyed again, an opportunity for comment and analysis.

So as well as a final word on what I’d like to be wearing next Autumn/winter I’m going to continue posting about the London Collections we saw in early January, focusing on the details that stand out to me now.

First up, here are some images from Martine Rose’s presentation on 8 January. Martine’s work can genuinely be described as conceptual; whilst many designers cite esoteric inspiration in their show notes, sometimes those influences are difficult to discern in the clothes themselves. However, Martine’s work always pushes her influences through to the surface of her designs, here looking at notions of sovereignty and status. This time the ‘performance’ based presentation, with models prowling around furniture and stepping onto a rotating podium in timed sequence, had the atmosphere of a gallery event, with some editors present clearly ruffled by the atypical format.

Details-wise, I loved the chunky-soled military boots (a collaboration with Bates) the wool and leather pants with ‘bondage’ zips and the leather parka .




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