A whole month of menswear: my AW13 wish list


Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, Wishlist. No Comments


In less than a Manhattan minute, the menswear shows will be happening in New York, bringing a month of men’s fashion to a close. And what a month it’s been! Even if you didn’t get to attend the shows in person, in 2013 you could sit ‘front row’ in the comfort of your own living room with the major presentations (Prada, Louis Vuitton etc) being streamed live, and unprecedented coverage in the press and digital media. For designers, now is when the real work starts: selling their cherished designs to the buyers that matter and getting the right press.

A good moment then, to pause and sift through it all. And with personal orders events cropping up as designers return to London, it’s time to make some decisions.

At some point I got caught up in the whole fashion industry timing thing, meaning that I now buy seasons ahead, which is exciting but means running the risk that your tastes will change before you get to wear your purchases. So far, I haven’t lived to regret my future gazing much but it does leave friends bemused when I’m asked for shopping tips. This is something I plan to redress in the coming weeks as I do some seasonal scene-shifting and bring some of the focus back onto Spring and Summer 13. For now though, let’s step back into the future.

First up on my wish list are these boots by Lou Dalton, a collaboration with Grenson that booked an early slot on my shopping agenda.

LouGrensonBoots1

LouGrensonBoots2

A whirl around Baartmans & Siegel’s studio (wearing half their collection) before Christmas notched up this super-versatile tailored puffa and fur-trimmed herringbone coat.

B&SAW13_puffa3B&SAW13_FurCollar

Taking a swift digital side step to Paris now, where Wooyoungmi’s elegant collection was full of strong colour from mustards to berry, aqua to marine blue. The item of choice for me was this beautiful winter coat in black, featuring a unique form of quilting in modernist, angular lines.

Wooyoungmi!

Watch the whole Wooyoungmi collection here.

Staying in Paris, Paul Smith took the French on at their own game, with a painterly collection featuring yet more strong colour, including some stunning knitwear. But what caught my eye were these trousers in jewel-bright wool. I’ve always loved pleated classic-looking pants and these have the advantage of looking incredibly modern by dint of the colours. I’m hard-pressed to choose, but this teal pair is winning out over the jade, plum and mustard, at least today.

PaulSmith1

In the realm of pure fantasy, I’d love to say that I was pre-ordering a Louis Vuitton carpet bag featuring the incredible Garden in Hell designs by The Chapman Brothers (sadly no relation). Unfortunately this one is likely to remain as distant as a gallery piece, though hopefully one can at least touch.

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Image: Louis Vuitton’s official Instagram

Back to London and a beret seems a very likely purchase as seen at YMC and Agi & Sam. Particularly as beanies may well be being burnt at the fashion stake by next Fall.

YMC_1 Image: YMC

And speaking of Agi & Sam, I love the impact of this bodywarmer over longer overcoats and their zip-backed blazers.

Agi & Sam AW13 Look 16

You may be wondering how my fashion eye managed to skip over Milan entirely, whilst my beloved New York is yet to show, but there is more to come before I put a lid on next Autumn Winter and return to the real world.

In the meantime, for more random musings on my likely purchases follow me on Instagram.

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