NYFW AW13: in the wings with Steven Cox of Duckie Brown
In New York later this afternoon, Duckie Brown will present their second collection for Perry Ellis. Whilst PE might be little known to Brits (aside from vaguely remembered billboard ads from that New York trip), as I’ve informed before, the brand is a mainstay at the more MOR department stores in the States. And last season, the Duckies blew the dust off Perry Ellis with a spirited re-visioning of the brand’s familiar khaki and signature polka dots.
Having already posted Daniel Silver‘s thoughts on the eve of their signature line’s show last Thursday, here are partner Steven’s responses in anticipation of the Perry Ellis show today. Steven Cox is British and brings a very European design aesthetic to what they do, as well as a strong dose of London irreverence. But he’s also very much a New Yorker, and for me, this successful mix of European refinement with a slice of metropolitan New York life is what makes Duckie Brown so unique.
SL: What can we expect this time? Can you give me a few choice phrases or starting points?
SC: I think we have done the same thing every season…. We just keep refining and keep asking questions?… the bloke that sells cauliflowers at the local market I think is where I started…and then the idea of changing layering around and using heavy wool for linings and light fabric for the outer shell…no shirts but underneath coats instead of shirts coats made of shirting…sweatshirts in wool and shirting both over and under coats…I could go on forever because it never ends…but that’s where I started…it’s always the boy I went to school with British lad from the outskirts of London…me I suppose…
SL: I noted an Egon Schiele book in your inspirations pile on your Tumblr journal. Are his images a recent influence or something more enduring for you?
SC: Egon Schiele is always there…the languid elongation of his drawings…Charlie Chaplin also…they have been in Duckie Brown since day one…there are many constants in the collection. I love repetition, the same thing over and over and over.
Image: Duckie Brown AW13. Full review coming soon.
SL: Do you approach the two collections (Duckie and Perry Ellis) in completely different ways?
SC: The method is the same but a very different approach and mind set…Both start in my sketch book but on different pages I always separate them never the same page…Duckie Brown has become more pure for me due to designing Perry Ellis at the same time.
Image from my profile of Duckie Brown in their studio, 2 years ago
SL: Do you have a preferred stylist you work with? What do they bring to your work?
SC: I love Grant Woolhead he is the only stylist I have worked with and he is a very big part of our family….we understand each other so well…he is from Dunstable and I’m from Potters Bar…enough said!!!!
SL: Any thoughts on the rumor that New York might get it’s own menswear week, as London now has. What’s your current assessment of menswear in New
SC: I would love to show in London one day… And I love living and showing Duckie Brown in New York…