Springwatch: spring bombers in high tec fabrics
Spring just might be in the air, and as ever, the first sunny days of the year encouraged sun deprived Londoners to shed layers and crack open the summer wardrobe early. Having invested in at least two pairs of summer shorts myself, I can understand that enthusiasm, but age and wisdom make me a little more hesitant. There’s a lot to be said for intra seasonal dressing, and Spring is a great time to hedge your bets, dipping toes into summer lightness and colour, without fully exposing those pasty limbs just yet.
It’s not that often I do a shopping post but right now I’m all about two items: the bomber jacket and finding a great pair of trainers for the summer. The bomber jacket has recently been redefined. One of those classic shapes you probably didn’t ever think about but created in new materials and worn with a certain intention it looks startlingly modern, particularly when layered over longer shirt hems and slim trousers. I’m working through a shortlist, my priorities being something that still excludes evening chills whilst not being too warm to wear on the tube, and preferably in a fabric that refreshes the eye after this endless winter.
This Jonathan Saunders jacket in a high-tec mesh, rates highly in the unusual fabrication. The sporty mesh suggests breathability but its also hefty enough to withstand a chilly walk back from the park. The deep mid-blue is a subtle take on summer colour, perfect for this season as the zeitgeist dictates we will be wearing darker, less traditionally ‘summer’ colours.
My next option treads a familiar Margiela path, with what looks like another recreated vintage ‘find’, with all the details and patina of a great military item you might be lucky enough to find in specialist seller. Khaki is another colour I’m seeing a lot of in my trawl of stores and online retailers, suggesting that the military influence is still strong in menswear. Just lay off the camo.
Sidestepping the very classic bomber shape momentarily, you can always rely on Rick Owens to bring something new to every situation. I am loving the double-layering in this waist length jacket with asymmetric zip to the collar, the top semi-transparent layer in a pale tone just revealing the depth of the black layer underneath. This is a classic Owens twist on a casual, sporty shape with added gravity and an avant-garde intent.
This McQueen bomber, in signature dragonfly print, avoids 80s satin excess by the exquisite detailing of the print rendering and the sharp cut of the jacket making it instantly contemporary.
Finally, this Richard Nicolls soft leather bomber, says much about the London designer’s eye for subtle elegance. The buttery leather make it an ideal item to shrug on when the chill factor is still strong, whilst the soft petrol colour makes a subtle nod to the change of season.