Five things you should know about Lou Dalton’s SS14 show at LC:M
Lou Dalton opened London Collections: Men again this season, this time with a new, less-fitted spin on her tailored sportswear aesthetic. Inspired by the rootless life of a young nomad, the collection is filled with intriguing details from this story, part RAF aviation field, part artist studio.
1.The music was, once again, brilliant. The Smiths How Soon is Now? and the original 12” version of Bauhaus’s Bela Lugosi’s Dead in particular, with its eerie, twitchy rhythms, established a darker, more somber mood for Lou’s show this season. Jim Stanton of Horsemeat Disco crafted the soundtrack, with his usual flair for pressing just the right emotional buttons.
2.She redefined the shorts suit. I often find the combination of a blazer and shorts can look prissy, but something about the ‘pyjama jacket’ overshirt with it’s boxy shape and open lapels made this look seem more relaxed and wearable (and yes I’m aware a silk brocade shorts suit could be described as prissy, but it’s not, it works).
3.There were boilersuits. The boilersuit has been around the edges of menswear for a few seasons, worn by a few industry types and occasionally cropping up in collections, but has never really become a fashion standard. Lou’s came in a crumpled, ‘muddied’ fabric and there was also a version in black, both redolent of the airfield but looking very easy to wear and not at all uniform-like.
4.The fabrics are all remarkable. From the lilac denim jacket to the shiny brocade of the pyjama suits, prints, ‘muddied’/creased fabrics and delicate knits in black and white. You need to touch and look at these materials up close to really appreciate them.
5.The boots are a collaboration with Grenson again. They’re super-lovely, in black canvas which makes them lighter, but with the same laddered lacing as AW13. I had wondered how she’d make Grenson’s sturdy construction a bit more suitable for Spring/Summer and she’s cracked it.