Lookbook review: Peter Jensen SS14 menswear, Q&A

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear. No Comments

Peter Jensen‘s collection for next Spring/Summer is inspired by fallen Hollywood star and socialite Paulette Goddard and her milieu, including one Andy Warhol. The women’s resort collection was photographed alongside the SS14 menswear, including some stunning images of a young Goddard-like socialite and her friend Mr Warhol, admirably played here by young models. The menswear is made up of simple separates bridging the gap between downtown daywear and clothes for that upscale loft party later. The colour palette spans Pop Art brights and strong monochromes (reminiscent of Andy’s screenprints).

“I like the idea of this chic old lady sitting smoking at Studio 54, dressed in Pop Art colours, telling everybody how rich she is and that she used to be a famous movie star.” 

Intrigued by those lookbook images I asked Peter Jensen how it all came about, and here are his sometimes laconic, very Warholian responses.

SL: How did you first become aware of Paulette Goddard and her milieu?  Was there a biography you read? 
PJ: I think, no I know that the first time I knew who she was, was watching ‘The  Women’. I liked her in that, the young bitch that wins in the end.
SL: What drew you to Andy Warhol as an inspiration for the mens collection?
PJ: I was asked by the Danish Art Museum Louisiana (http://www.louisiana.dk/dk) in Jan this year to come to the museum to talk about Warhol and his early work ( watch the video here /peterjensen.co.uk/watch-jensen-talking-about-warhol-at-louisiana) and that made be think how much I like him and his work and his world, does that make sense?
SL:  Were there essential aspects of Andy Warhol’s personal style you wanted to convey?
PJ: I liked the oddness of wearing a tie with a pair of jeans and a shirt, very daywear clothing but then again very ironed and sharp.
I love watching the men on the overground going to work in a suit, but then wearing a sports jacket and rucksack, it reminded me of Andy.I kind of think of him when I think about myself, in the way of behaving. I like to watch people and not talk all the time, some people do and just talk and talk without saying anything, but it is sort of fun to watch.
SL: The two collections look really coherent together. Which comes first? Or do you work on them simultaneously?
PJ: The menswear comes first, it always does. funny that because i think I’m mostly known for my womenswear, but i did do my my MA (at St. Martins) in menswear and have been teaching on the MA at St. Martins for the last 11 years, so a lot of the famous menswear designers that we all know today I have taught on the MA.
SL: The model in the lookbook carries off being Andy Warhol really well, how did you go about auditioning him? Not every young male model would look so comfortable in a silver wig!
PJ: He was great, like really great. I wasn’t sure about him when he came in for a casting, but thank God we had him because he played the part so well. He just took the direction and ran with it. No, he was good.
SL: There’s a lot of black and white in the menswear – what appeals to you about monochrome? 
PJ: Don’t really know, it just sort happened and I think it fits well with the world of Andy Warhol, don’t you?
SL: Do you have any plans to show menswear at future London Collections: Men? From the lookbook it could be a really fun presentation!
PJ: I wish I wasn’t so lazy about these things, because I do believe that we could do a really great presentation, that would be fun to do, but then I turn on the TV and get lazy….
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