LC:M schedule announcement: Casely-Hayford’s runway show and Kit Neale moves on to NewGen Men.
Last week the schedule for the next London Collections: Men in January was announced, making it clear which designers will show and when, as design studios across the capital prepare to spend the Christmas break feverishly completing collections for the menswear showcase.
January’s schedule features some fixtures, like Lou Dalton, a designer moving to the next level who will once again present the first show of the London season, but there are also some interesting and exciting additions to the line-up like father-son partnership Casely-Hayford and Swedish brand Common. London’s globabl status as a capital of fashion innovation is reflected in initiatives like Fashion East and NewGen Men, both of which provide a platform and much-needed support for young menswear designers. As LC:M matures and develops as an event, the career trajectory of young designers through such schemes is evident, with talent like Agi & Sam and print prodigy Kit Neale graduating through the ranks to produce ever-more polished runway shows and presentations.
Increasingly well attended by overseas press and buyers (with some American buyers even relinquishing their misty-eyed notions of Paris to come here instead), LC:M is proof that what London offers above other fashion capitals is variety. From ‘establishment’ events at locations like Savile Row or Lord’s (often Downing Street or Clarence House endorsed) to anarchic, gender-blurring presentations verging on performance art, London’s menswear programme brings all the style tribes together, for a few days at least.
Showing on the runway for the first time together in January, father and son partnership Casely-Hayford epitomise London’s colourful fashion history. While Charlie is currently the striking face about town of the brand, his father Joe is no stranger to runway shows, having been one of the city’s most cherished menswear designers since the ’80s. Charlie had this to say about the build up to their first show together:
‘Prepping for our debut show in January has been an interesting experience. For my father his first show was in the 80’s and for me this is my first show in London. A lot of our experiences as father and son designers play out like this and allow us to interact with and interpret things very differently – this dynamic is at the core of the brand’s DNA. The purposeful disparity always creates an interesting aesthetic.’
Personally, I’m very excited to see what the pair deliver on the runway, their unique fusion of tailoring with streetwear motifs and generation-crossing aesthetics is always surprising and impeccably realised.
Right now, young designers like Kit Neale, reknowned for his colourful prints, are bringing word of London’s buoyant menswear scene to a global audience via collaborations with the likes of Opening Ceremony, the talent-sourcing New York based store. Currently, Kit’s Tutti Frutti prints are on sale at the Opening Ceremony pop-up within Selfridges. Another Opening Ceremony collaborator is Lou Dalton, whose second OC collaboration features sportswear with exposed zip details and logos inspired by the film Local Hero. A real LC:M success story, it’s a measure of Lou’s recent success that her sporty tailoring can already be found at Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Dover Street Market and other high-end outlets overseas.
For those interested in what men can wear, LC:M offers an intense immersion into the many different spheres of men’s fashion and I look forward to reporting back from some of the most visually striking events in the New Year. In the meantime, the prospect of facing the ever-expanding army of street style photographers with a Christmas paunch, might mean a few less mince pies for this writer.
A sweatshirt from Lou Dalton’s second collaboration with Opening Ceremony:
One of Kit Neale’s Tutti Frutti designs for the OC pop-up at Selfridges: