Next up in my previews with London designers presenting next week is Baartmans and Siegel. Amber and Wouter kindly took some time out from polishing what is always one of the capital’s most desirable collections to speak to me about their inspiration and some of the unique flavours we can expect this season.
SL: What was your inspiration for Baartmans and Siegel AW14?
B&S: This season we are looking at the feeling of “stealth” and its masculine-evoking energy. Ice, bleak climates and layered silhouettes.The blurred dark depths of internal male emotion – all those blurred shadows and dark patches of your mind that generate the urge for tactile, insular comfor. A man seeking out sensory nourishment.
Wishing to continue our exploration and signature homage to the broad spectrum of navy and inky tones that belong to menswear, we have included many of these and are using British deep rich wools, doeskins and melton from the renowned textile mill Hainsworth. Tailored, to add a defined, slick edge and to compliment an effortless sporty offering of performance jackets, puffas and leather bombers. Its all about finding the piece of outerwear that flicks your switch of projected quiet-confidence.
SL: Describe the vibe of the collection in 5 choice words.
Stealth, Indulgent, Covert, Insular, Aggressive-Elegance
SL: Do you have a favorite piece from this collection we should look out for?
B&S: Within this winter’s collection we are pleased to announce our capsule collaboration with Penfield. Three engineered outerwear pieces that explore classic performancewear and indulgence. These pieces truly highlight the nucleus of the theme of masculine stealth-utility, strength, durability, with our characteristic flourishes of considered extravagance.
SL: What music were you listening to in the studio when designing the collection?
B&S: Consistently the studio is a haven for 1980’s music and electro in particular – the likes of Giorgio Moroder and Eric Clapton. Our family are huge 60’s-80’s rock, psychedelic, blues and music fans..our flat houses a very comprehensive vinyl collection…thousands. Lately we have been mixing Suzi Quatro, Deptford Goth, Luniz and Connan Mockasin …. so rather eclectic! Anything with a loud bass to match the stormy and masculine nature of the new winter collection. Power sewing music. Pedal to the Metal.