Up close with Matthew Miller’s AW14 collection
Matthew Miller’s collection was a big highlight of London Collections: Men for me a couple of months back, and as the private orders/sales/re-see season came around I was very keen to see it up close. In particular, the intriguing textured material produced with Danish fabric experts Kvadrat demanded to be touched. So last week I headed over to a studio in Soho to see the collection up close and grab a feel of that fancy fabric. And I was not disappointed: at close range it delights your sense of touch, like the kind of very expensive upholstery you might stroke in an uber chic hotel or furniture showroom. On the body meanwhile, it feels surprisingly light; the bulk of the fabric making the constructed form stand away from the skin slightly, leaving a cooling layer of air around you, with the promise of warmth when it’s needed (being made from wool).
In terms of individual pieces, the Kvadrat items kept drawing me back but also the high-grade leather of the biker jackets (after all what is a subversive collection without a biker jacket or two?), the glorious Corgi-produced knitwear and those zip details with the exaggerated grosgrain pulls all drew my eye. But, overall, it’s the subtle colour palette spanning chalky grey, navy and forest green make the whole collection feel so grown up and desirable.
Matthew’s name does not appear in the garments themselves: like untitled artworks, there is the suggestion that what you as a viewer (and in this case also potential wearer) bring to it is what creates the final piece. But that’s not to say that his signature isn’t there; it is there in the cut, the choice of the extraordinary fabrics and in the very idea of sartorial democracy and adding your own signature to what you choose to wear.