NYFW AW15: Details to savour from the menswear shows
As I share my highlights from the week, it’s time to wave goodbye to New York, though this time it’s more of a ‘see you later’ as we’ll be right back here again in July for the inaugural menswear week.
I’ve already reviewed Duckie Brown in detail, but here are some details from the other collections I particularly enjoyed this trip. There are some familiar names here, as certain New York talents continue to plough as steady furrow through the dross of mainstream menswear, but as ever, I was interested to discover the newer names around town. With the likes of Astrid Andersen and Bobby Abley showing in the city, it’s also interesting to see if some of the fierce lustre of the street-ier aspects of LC:M will rub off over here.
Bettering last season‘s epic rooftop show was always going to be a tough call, but Daisuke Obana’s collection for AW15 had some gentle highlights like the cable knits and collarless, shearling tunics, the snowflake prints and robust outerwear T-shirt shapes. Obana’s work benefits from the objective take on American style motifs his being based in Japan allows.
Being a fashion darling is a mixed blessing, but the home crowd enthusiasm for Robert Geller’s work only emphasises the desirability of his collection. Earthy, warm colours and graphic masculine outlines have become his signatures, and winter clothing is a great vehicle for both.
Another much loved home talent, Coppens work builds on a steady base of sleek, luxurious sportswear and showing womenswear alongside menswear for the second time this season, the totality of his vision is well represented. I loved the petrol-y tones of his opening pieces and the slick take on defending against the cold which is the exact opposite of rustic, folksy outerwear.
There were more bold, graphical lines in Bumsuk Choi’s collection at General Idea. Having skipped showing in New York last season, he was back and on point, this time the strong lines had a militaristic edge and were defined by shape and form as much as surface detail. The oversized coats, matchy pinstripe separates and bold knitwear were scene stealers.
Hood by Air
Speaking of scenes, Shayne Oliver’s Hood by Air continues to draw on an attention-grabbing, countercultural zeitgeist (as in those stocking-head masks) but there is also a growing maturity to his work, as though the attention that shows in London and Pitti have provided, has helped to reframe what his work is about. Here American streetwear standards from the puffa to the camel coat and track pants, were given a shake up and made less familiar. I loved the pleated wide leg pants, the furs with the HBA uber-branding and his take on camel, which shredded any association with conservatism that colour might have.
In terms of new names, Ryu Hayama’s Fingers Crossed line impressed with the elegant belted overcoats, Breton stripes, leather trimmed tracksuits and in general, his playful take on rainwear. Classic raincoat yellow was given a new spin, hair was styled as after the deluge and streamlined rain hats were cut with the precision of classic skyscraper-era New York architecture.
Other names around town which caught my eye were Thaddeus O’Neil‘s intriguing blend of Walt Whitman hobo poetry and surf culture, this season explored in the guise of Viking sea warriors, complete with face jewellery, and newcomer Vejas, whose presentation blurred gender difference with the kind of subversion with intent that is always a welcome counterpoint to whatever else might be going on in New York.
New York, see you in July.