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James Long brought charm to London Collections: Men on a gloomy Sunday morning, featuring his signature bohemian knitwear and denim and, in this instance, bespoke fabrics featuring hand drawings by James Davison. Inspired by the carefree spirit of “people who think they are blending in, but they’re totally not,” I caught up with the man himself to talk about this intriguing concept, and others, moments after the show finished. Read my Q&A with James here, or read on for more highlights from Day 3.
Baartmans & Siegel
Baartmans and Siegel have an unfailing instinct for pre-empting what men want to wear, and have also become experts at the presentation format honed over seasons at London Collections: Men. Today’s presentation took a Western theme, and while the models backstage were urged to “be the bad ass cowboys”, amidst the neon cacti and motel signs, this one was seriously urbane set of cowboys. There was denim, for sure, albeit white denim, artfully shredded in places, but there was also some seriously covetable joggers, in gorgeous flecked grey fabrics, one featuring a button detail at the hem, and it is this very kind of attention to detail that makes Baartmans pieces such a joy to wear.
Belstaff never shy away from creating a fully-fledged arena in which to present their collections. After last season’s formica biker caff, for SS16 the premium outerwear brand created a full-scale Desert Storm army camp, complete with real sand dunes in which to showcase their wares. Patinated leathers and upscale versions of utilitarian wear evoked a sense of clothing with purpose, of items cherished for their usefulness. Despite the air of heritage, of course there is a lot of design going on, the standout item for me being the slim-fitting cargo pants in pale shades of sand.
Taking inspiration from Las Posas, the folly created deep in the Mexican jungle by English poet and Surrealist, Edward James, the Richard James SS16 collection was full of the vivid colour that such an exotic inspiration suggests. To take one look apart in full from the collection, I’m very taken by the petrol blue and the late 60’s vibe of this shirt/jacket, the sheer luxury of the pale shorts beneath and the touch of exoticism in the embroidered raffia mules. Sometimes a summer collection takes you on a journey, and given the gloomy skies in London currently, this look from Richard James takes me where I want to go.