Tag: AW13

NYFW, in the wings with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox of Duckie Brown

Posted on 14th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

At the start of New York Fashion Week I caught up with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox as they were preparing to present first their own Duckie Brown line and then a few days later, their Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection. As ever, it’s a fascinating insight into the world of Duckie Brown.

Words with Daniel on the eve of Duckie Brown’s show in New York.

Words with Steven on the eve of Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown in New York.

Read my Duckie Brown collection review here, Perry Ellis will follow shortly.

NYFW AW13: in the wings with Steven Cox of Duckie Brown

Posted on 12th February, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

In New York later this afternoon, Duckie Brown will present their second collection for Perry Ellis. Whilst PE might be little known to Brits (aside from vaguely remembered billboard ads from that New York trip), as I’ve informed before, the brand is a mainstay at the more MOR department stores in the States. And last season, the Duckies blew the dust off Perry Ellis with a spirited re-visioning of the brand’s familiar khaki and signature polka dots.

Having already posted Daniel Silver‘s thoughts on the eve of their signature line’s show last Thursday, here are partner Steven’s responses in … Read More »

NYFW AW13: in the wings with Duckie Brown

Posted on 7th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

Later today, Duckie Brown will present their AW13 Collection. Always a highlight of New York Fashion Week for me, I love how their uncompromising vision of menswear confronts the more ‘buttoned up’ notions of masculinity being presented elsewhere in the City. With not one but two collections to prepare (their menswear line for Perry Ellis will be shown next week), not to mention their ongoing collaboration with shoemakers Florsheim, you could say the Duckies are busy. Here are some reminders of recent collections, interspersed with some questions I managed to fire at the guys in the last week. And to heighten the suspense, those intriguing posters from around town and the ‘Duckyl’ flyer for today’s show.

Your last Duckie collection (SS13) was described as being quite “tough” with lots of … Read More »

A whole month of menswear: my AW13 wish list

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, Wishlist. No Comments

In less than a Manhattan minute, the menswear shows will be happening in New York, bringing a month of men’s fashion to a close. And what a month it’s been! Even if you didn’t get to attend the shows in person, in 2013 you could sit ‘front row’ in the comfort of your own living room with the major presentations (Prada, Louis Vuitton etc) being streamed live, and unprecedented coverage in the press and digital media. For designers, now is when the real work starts: selling their cherished designs to the buyers that matter and getting the right press.

A good moment then, to pause and sift through it all. And with personal orders events cropping up as designers return to London, it’s time to make some decisions.

Meadham Kirchhoff men’s AW13: bin bags and Byronic dandies

Posted on 20th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

“It’s finished,” said the bouncer on the door at Meadham Kirchhoff’s AW13 menswear presentation, “You missed it by 30 seconds.” “Can I go and look at the debris?”, I replied, having noticed the stacks of bin bags making up the set, hinting at something quite apocalyptic inside. Flashing an obviously rare smile, he stepped back to let me in.

I was fortunate: the models were still standing in place to facilitate a last-minute photo shoot, the designers themselves passing me on their way out. Meadham Kirchhoff’s presentation last season was my favourite experience at the first London Collections: Men, hence my keenness not to miss the follow up. That mad squat filled with the scent of over-blown blooms, boys with pink hair and visibly alarmed fashion editors keeping … Read More »

Lou Dalton, AW13: raw terrain and Local Heroes

Posted on 13th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, menswear. 3 Comments

Almost a week ago, Lou Dalton opened London Collections Men: AW13, presenting her collection to an attentive crowd primed for a week of looking at fashion for men. Whilst being the opening act will never be an easy gig, Lou is a perfect choice for this particular role. From the very first look, there was an air of calm accomplishment about her work and under her steady hand, London Collections: Men AW13 was starting out pitch perfect.

It feels right to be reviewing this collection now. By the end of the week of looking at beautiful garments on striking looking men, there is a sense of blur. As much as you want to see more, there is an element of visual fatigue, so going back to the start now feels right.

The City-boy formality of the opening looks … Read More »

LCM: AW13, Baartmans and Siegel in the studio

Posted on 9th January, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

It’s not often I feel overwhelmed after leaving a designer’s studio but my visit to Baartmans and Siegel before Christmas left me reeling slightly from all the luxury and the amazing materials I’d touched. Maybe it had something to do with Amber insisting I try much of the collection on, which meant I felt the weight, the comfort and the sheer sensual pleasure of wearing such beautiful clothes and connecting with them off the rail.

I love meeting designers who are very inspired by what they do, and Baartmans and Siegel are clearly very inspired. For designers whose backgrounds span Marc Jacobs and Viktor and Rolf they remain affable, approachable and clearly in love with their craft. The details of our chat ranged from scratch and sniff cherry fragrance to Amber’s love of Jeff Bridges, and the fashion-y pleasures of a perfect gliding zip, quality buttons and the production of yak wool.

LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Baartmans and Siegel

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

My final anticipatory post for LC:M is a departure from the Q&A and studio visits I’ve been working on since early December. It’s not that I didn’t visit the lovely Amber Siegel and Wouter Baartmans in their Hackney studio, but I was so overexcited about being given the opportunity to actually try on the collection that a Q&A format really wouldn’t do justice to that sensual experience now. So this is a post in two halves, first up here’s a little insight into their inspirations for AW13. A post with detailed pics of my favourite pieces from the studio visit is still to come, once the collection is no longer under wraps.

And of course I’ll be poring over the presentation pics and sharing that experience with you after Wednesday.

For now, it’s all … Read More »

LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Martine Rose

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

With LC:M almost upon us, it’s time for my final posts with some of London’s brightest and most anticipated menswear talent. Next up is Martine Rose, who can always be relied upon to bring a cerebral approach, very much balanced by a grittier awareness of street culture.  This season we’ve been advised to get to our seats for Martine’s presentation in good time as the presentation will be “a performance.” The intriguing playing card invite suggests both regal finery and roguish gambling knaves.

















Here’s what Martine had to say when we caught up:

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?

MR: Sovereignty, status, ghetto kings. It started after I came back from Jamaica in the summer, I was so inspired by the rasta community there, even in … Read More »

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