As I share my highlights from the week, it’s time to wave goodbye to New York, though this time it’s more of a ‘see you later’ as we’ll be right back here again in July for the inaugural menswear week.
I’ve already reviewed Duckie Brown in detail, but here are some details from the other collections I particularly enjoyed this trip. There are some familiar names here, as certain New York talents continue to plough as steady furrow through the dross of mainstream menswear, but as ever, I was interested to discover the newer names around town. With the likes of Astrid Andersen and Bobby Abley showing in the city, it’s also interesting to see if some of the fierce lustre of the street-ier aspects of LC:M will rub off over here.
Bettering … Read More »
The recent announcement that New York will have a separate menswear week in July, means that the men’s collections showing here this week will be under additional scrutiny. With such considerations in mind, it is reassuring to see Duckie Brown once again delivering a collection which reveals their mastery of cut, colour and form; demonstrating that its business as usual for the Duckies.
There’s often a body part, a focal point or implied movement being celebrated in a Duckie Brown collection, and this time it would appear to be the breastbone, revealed under sheer fabrics, in shirts worn pulled open to reveal the chest or framed by the “V” of a kimono-style wrapped neckline. There is something almost swashbuckling about this shape, the chest revealed under undulating layers of silky … Read More »
Day two at London Collections: Men has been quite phenomenal, picking up the pace with shows spanning morning to late evening and showcasing the range of menswear talent in London. As this is a highlights piece, I’ve decided to try and limit myself to one image per designer, a bit challenging to be honest, as I’ve seen so many beautiful things today.
As a fashion commentator, there is a risk of covering the same designers over and over, particularly when you get to know them and their their work intimately. Lou Dalton is a mainstay across all my fashion writing, a touchstone for what I refer to when people ask me what defines good menswear in London currently, and I make no apology for that. This morning’s show was one of her best ever, ramped up by some incredible fabrics … Read More »