Tag: Baartmans and Siegel
Having grabbed the headlines with his Grindr-hosted live stream, there was little that JW Andersen would do to raise eyebrows any further, given that his designs are already renowned for their off kilter, gender defying singularity. Looks including satin pyjamas in pastel colours and a cropped floral quilted jacket worn with knitted trousers, all accessorised with chokers, were in keeping with Anderson’s determined approach to exploring clothing that is typically defined as female. But there were also more whimsical, cartoon-like features: a snail silhouette appeared as a motif, tracksuit pockets in the form of clouds. Whatever accusations of being too out-there might be thrown at Anderson, a look back at last Autumn Winter’s cropped shearling jackets, ’70s ski wear and horizontal blocked stripes should be enough to demonstrate that he is often prescient in his menswear, however outlandish it … Read More »
James Long brought charm to London Collections: Men on a gloomy Sunday morning, featuring his signature bohemian knitwear and denim and, in this instance, bespoke fabrics featuring hand drawings by James Davison. Inspired by the carefree spirit of “people who think they are blending in, but they’re totally not,” I caught up with the man himself to talk about this intriguing concept, and others, moments after the show finished. Read my Q&A with James here, or read on for more highlights from Day 3.
Baartmans & Siegel
Baartmans and Siegel have an unfailing instinct for pre-empting what men want to wear, and have also become experts at the presentation format honed over seasons at London Collections: Men. Today’s presentation took a … Read More »
By the third day, London Collections: Men began to feel like a marathon with another busy day of shows and presentations across the gamut of menswear; from edgy, emerging talent to mega brands and some of London’s most established designers. Again, I’m limiting myself to one image from each of the shows that felt like stand-outs for me yesterday, but my bulging hard drive is evidence that there is a lot of exciting menswear still to share over the coming days.
Baartmans and Siegel
Athough they only graduated to an on-schedule runway show this season, Baartmans and Siegel are already established as a reliable source of impeccably-made tailored sportswear with the very best fabric and finish. Grosgrain ribbon added a sporty element, a typically luxe take on go-faster stripes. Fur, as ever, was very evident as trim on high-end parkas, and now … Read More »
A month of menswear kicks off tomorrow with London Collections: Men, now a four-day event. Back in the day (2011 to be precise, when it was still called Menswear Day), a handful of enthusiastic journos, buyers, bloggers and me squeezed into compact rooms at Somerset House to watch London’s menswear talent present their collections. The atmosphere crackled with expectation, alive with cherished dreams of recognition and just the very newness of it all, despite those cramped surroundings. These days its the schedule that’s packed, with headline talent such as Burberry on the agenda, and the full span of London’s menswear on display – from East London’s latest enfants terribles to big league brands and Savile Row tailoring houses.
Here are some of the shows I’m personally looking forward to.
Kit Neale is a great talent who I’ve supported, cheered on and … Read More »
I originally wrote this piece about London’s most exciting knitwear designers back in the summer, when thoughts of wooly jumpers and indeed winter itself felt like a distant prospect, stuffed away with the thermal undies, but here we now are in the first properly cold days of the season when a warm sweater makes perfect sense. This piece somehow got squeezed out of the publishing schedule it was intended for, but as some of London’s finest knitted garment designers gave me their time to divulge their thoughts on the art of the knit I’m sharing it with you here.
The humble sweater rarely gets media attention (unless it’s one of those pieces in the free papers celebrating ironic Christmas jumpers) but knitwear for men is becoming more creative and experimental. There will always be scope for a classic – a black … Read More »
London Collections: Men ended last night in buoyant mood as the capital’s menswear industry rides high on a wave of seemingly ever-growing interest in men’s fashion. The London menswear showcase is now firmly on the map for American and Asian buyers visiting on their way to the European shows and there was more to see than ever and more people here to see it. I posted my initial impressions at the start of the week over on my Guardian page, but here are my thoughts from the remaining 2 days.
On Monday evening Richard Nicoll showed his trademark simple unfussy separates in refreshing whites, gingham check and with clashing patterns in red, yellow and blue colourways. Classic low profile Adidas lace-ups were accessorised by the inimitable Judy Blame. In fact styling … Read More »
Baartmans and Siegel are the latest young British designer to announce a collaboration with high street chain River Island. I tend to be a bit lukewarm about high street/designer collaborations in general, mainly because the few purchases I’ve made from such designer hook-ups are now gathering dust. However, River Island has been working with some of the most interesting young British designers recently, having produced collections with Joseph Turvey and T.Lipop to date. This approach feels like a more relevant exercise than trying to translate very established luxury brands into mass-produced budget fashion à la H&M, being more akin to Topman’s long term support of YBDs. Baartmans are regulars on Sharpened Lead and their relaxed … Read More »
London Collections: Men ended on Wednesday, concluding the busiest schedule yet. Here are my favourite themes that emerged during the week.
While black is most definitely back, forest green and charcoal kept the mood sombre but provided slightly gentler, more natural alternatives at the shows this week. Matthew Miller showed deepest forest green to its best advantage on Tuesday but the muted colour was also seen at Oliver Spencer, Common, and YMC.
Strong, graphical lines – often scaled up to cover the width of garments – filled runways with moving modernist canvases. Seen at E.Tautz and Casely-Hayford but also present at Nicomede Talavera (a designer showing for the first time at talent incubator Fashion East‘s presentations) … Read More »
Next up in my previews with London designers presenting next week is Baartmans and Siegel. Amber and Wouter kindly took some time out from polishing what is always one of the capital’s most desirable collections to speak to me about their inspiration and some of the unique flavours we can expect this season.
SL: What was your inspiration for Baartmans and Siegel AW14?
B&S: This season we are looking at the feeling of “stealth” and its masculine-evoking energy. Ice, bleak climates and layered silhouettes.The blurred dark depths of internal male emotion – all those blurred shadows and dark patches of your mind that generate the urge for tactile, insular comfor. A man seeking out sensory nourishment.
Wishing to continue our exploration and signature homage to the broad spectrum of navy and inky tones that belong to menswear, we have included many of … Read More »
In less than a Manhattan minute, the menswear shows will be happening in New York, bringing a month of men’s fashion to a close. And what a month it’s been! Even if you didn’t get to attend the shows in person, in 2013 you could sit ‘front row’ in the comfort of your own living room with the major presentations (Prada, Louis Vuitton etc) being streamed live, and unprecedented coverage in the press and digital media. For designers, now is when the real work starts: selling their cherished designs to the buyers that matter and getting the right press.
A good moment then, to pause and sift through it all. And with personal orders events cropping up as designers return to London, it’s time to make some decisions.