Tag: Bruce Pask

A look back at Public School, the new creative directors of DKNY

Posted on 18th May, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Visiting New York for fashion week a few years ago, Public School were one of the brands I came across, and enthused about to a then largely disinterested audience in the UK, still hyped up on the success of London C0llections: Men at drawing the fashion world’s attention to menswear and the emergence of  homegrown talent in particular. I continued to cover the brand’s presentations for The Guardian, which usually took place at Milk Studios where other New York menswear hopefuls such as Rochambeau, staged concurrent presentations on the Sunday night of fashion week, providing focus in a city where menswear is illiberally sprinkled across the week’s schedule. From the first, designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow stuck to a clear formula; a refined version of New York’s no-fuss streetwear, in the form of MA1s, biker jackets and mesh … Read More »

100 Days,100 Beards, The Book Launch

Posted on 1st November, by Colin Chapman in Mens Grooming, menswear. No Comments

Over the summer I became acquainted with a very personable young photographer and fellow blogger, Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce of Another Garcon. Jonathan’s project 100 Days, 100 Beards has subsequently taken off with such meteoric force that one can only assume that he has captured the beard zeitgeist at just the right moment.

As I type, I’m preparing myself to attend the launch party for Jonathan’s book. At this moment in time, it’s great to see that such blog projects can still evolve into meaningful, covetable books, given the potential for mediocrity out there. It’s also great that this is a specifically menswear blogging phenomenon, something to be celebrated amongst our select crew. As a long-term beard ‘fancier’ myself, this is a project I could well relate to, especially … Read More »

New York Fashion Week Diary: SS13

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in 2013, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow presented a subversive and very European spin on classic layers at Milk on Sunday. The blazers, signature biker jackets, mesh layers and and big kudos for the solid-colour white and navy Doc Marten shoes.

Public School, presentation Sunday 9 September

One of the strongest looks, all white, featuring layered hems and a beautiful padded biker gilet.

The New York Time’s Bruce Pask gets the designer walk-through treatment from Dao-Yi Chow.

The collision of the facial tattoo trend and it-boy model in one person doesn’t detract from this strong tailored jacket.

Rochambeau, presentation Sunday 9 September
One of the benefits of the scrum of menswear day at Milk studios was being able to sneak into neighbouring presentations. I’m so glad I did when it came to Rochambeau. An impactful presentation inspired by the … Read More »

The Backstory: a conversation with Lou Dalton in her studio

Posted on 2nd August, by Colin Chapman in Lou Dalton, Studio Visit. No Comments

Next up in my conversations with exceptional designers from London Collections: Men is Lou Dalton. I caught up with Lou at her studio in Spitalfields last week. This was my third opportunity to get up close with her SS13 collection, which I’d first encountered in a showroom, just hours after her show, then, a week before our chat, I’d had the opportunity to try on some of the beautiful tailored pieces featuring panels of sports mesh from SS13 at a private orders night. It’s easy to see why this collection was the perfect opener to The London Collections: Men and went on to be so well received by the international press. The simple lines, solid palette of black, navy, stone and wine and the signature Dalton fusion of tailoring and technical sportswear told a story that was immediately discernible, needing … Read More »

Meadham Kirchhoff: drunk on perfume, Wall Flowers and Pepto Bismol

Posted on 17th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

Fashion, at least partly, is meant to be fun. Meadham Kirchhoff‘s brilliant show-cum-performance-art-installation today was a great reminder of that. It was one of the main things I wanted to attend during this London Collections: Men weekend and as an event it really didn’t disappoint. A somewhat show-weary and tetchy crowd were eventually filtered through the entrance to 3 Carlton Gardens and up the sweeping staircase to be confronted by a heavy, floral fragrance (later revealed to be Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon’s) wafting across two rooms. Here, louche, lithe boys lounged around on mattresses: some masked, others with handwritten facial ‘tattoos’, all wearing the heady mix of colour, fabrics and texture that Meadham Kirchhoff are renowned for. In the presence of a large crowd complete with the likes of … Read More »

The London Collections: Men, it’s a tribal affair

Posted on 31st May, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. No Comments

With just two weeks to go, I thought I’d share some of my hopes and excitement about the newly extended menswear ‘week’ in London. Leading men’s fashion editors like New York Times’ T Magazine’s Bruce Pask are coming to town, to attend not only the shows but a rather glittering array of parties and launches, hosted by the likes of Prince Charles and Tom FordMenswear day: London Fashion Week‘s little brother has come of age it seems, and the eyes of the world will be bearing down on us, or at least those who care anything about fashion for men.

With mens fashion featured for a full week, including an intensive 3-day weekend of menswear only events, the spread is wider than the singular Menswear Day of the last few seasons. In true London style, … Read More »

Menswear Trend: The military jacket

Posted on 3rd October, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Sometimes trends take a LONG time to come around, and since my 18-months ago Brandish post about Italian ‘Sartorialist’ men using military jackets as a stylish cover for their suits, the trend has become a familiar item in womenswear and come back to hit us as a definite menswear street current.

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