Tag: Duckie Brown


Menswear at New York fashion week reviewed

Posted on 12th September, by Colin Chapman in New York, New York Fashion Week. 1 Comment

My round up from The Guardian earlier this week, in case you missed it there or aren’t a Guardian visitor.

New York fashion week concludes soon and the more interesting menswear shows this week demonstrated that beneath the city’s reputation for understatement beats a less conventional heart

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown are New York’s premier menswear experimentalists, and on Friday among the most surprising pieces in their collection were skirts and aprons inspired by sportswear and uniforms, shown alongside classic shapes such as bomber jackets and shorts. The idea of men in skirts still provokes strong reactions, which is why bolder menswear designers continue to return to it.

This collection was grounded in solid colours reminiscent of uniforms – navy, grey and khaki – and paired up with the solid heft of the … Read More »


New York Fashion Week SS14: Duckie Brown review

Posted on 6th September, by Colin Chapman in New York, New York Fashion Week. 4 Comments

Boys keep swinging: Duckie Brown’s SS14 collection doesn’t skirt around the issue of what men can wear.

Duckie Brown today played up to their reputation for being New York’s premier experimentalists in the form of menswear. And playing is the right word to use, not in the sense of being pointlessly frivolous but in the idea of a childlike refusal to accept rules as rules and to continuously test boundaries, especially when it comes to what can be worn and by whom. In the opening moments, a spoken word soundtrack, voiced by children, expressed the arbitrariness of male and female dress codes and their impact on aspirations and identities, a sentiment later underlined by the lyrics of some driving adult-vocalled hip hop.

Backstage before the show, Read More »


LC:M SS14, In the studio with Kit Neale

Posted on 15th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, On the Radar, Studio Visit. 1 Comment

Last season I met up with Kit Neale, in his studio off Kingsland Road in central East London, to discuss his then upcoming collection for Fashion East, one of London’s menswear’s best regarded platforms for emerging fashion talent. Known for his punchy prints, which have incorporated seafood and allotment vegetables amongst other motifs, I was curious to learn whether Kit was at all worried that fashion’s love affair with print had reached its zenith.

Six months later, I’m back in Kit’s studio: there are are fresh moodboards and sketches all over the … Read More »


Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown SS13 Campaign

Posted on 8th March, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear. No Comments

With fashion’s time machine set on AW13, it’s been all about winter recently, both in terms of the view out of the window and what we’re aspiring to wear in a year’s time. So it’s easy to forget that we’ve yet to experience Spring/Summer 13 and I’m now looking forward to putting to the test some of my predictions and advanced purchases as the days gradually get longer.


NYFW, in the wings with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox of Duckie Brown

Posted on 14th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

At the start of New York Fashion Week I caught up with Daniel Silver and Steven Cox as they were preparing to present first their own Duckie Brown line and then a few days later, their Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection. As ever, it’s a fascinating insight into the world of Duckie Brown.

Words with Daniel on the eve of Duckie Brown’s show in New York.

Words with Steven on the eve of Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown in New York.

Read my Duckie Brown collection review here, Perry Ellis will follow shortly.


NYFW, AW13 Duckie Brown: turning ‘outerwear’ inside out

Posted on 14th February, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, menswear. No Comments

A week ago today Duckie Brown presented their AW13 collection in New York. Whilst posters around the city suggested a potential print-fest, perhaps a wintry take on the ‘bruised roses‘ of SS12, what emerged was a brilliantly executed reversal of expectation with a a play on the whole concept of ‘outerwear’ and layering.

Whilst Daniel had hinted that the collection would be “tough again – poofy lad”, Steven‘s summing up: “changing layering around and using heavy wool for linings and light fabric for the outer shell…no shirts but underneath coats instead of shirts … Read More »


NYFW AW13: in the wings with Steven Cox of Duckie Brown

Posted on 12th February, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

In New York later this afternoon, Duckie Brown will present their second collection for Perry Ellis. Whilst PE might be little known to Brits (aside from vaguely remembered billboard ads from that New York trip), as I’ve informed before, the brand is a mainstay at the more MOR department stores in the States. And last season, the Duckies blew the dust off Perry Ellis with a spirited re-visioning of the brand’s familiar khaki and signature polka dots.

Having already posted Daniel Silver‘s thoughts on the eve of their signature line’s show last Thursday, here are partner Steven’s responses in … Read More »


NYFW AW13: in the wings with Duckie Brown

Posted on 7th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

Later today, Duckie Brown will present their AW13 Collection. Always a highlight of New York Fashion Week for me, I love how their uncompromising vision of menswear confronts the more ‘buttoned up’ notions of masculinity being presented elsewhere in the City. With not one but two collections to prepare (their menswear line for Perry Ellis will be shown next week), not to mention their ongoing collaboration with shoemakers Florsheim, you could say the Duckies are busy. Here are some reminders of recent collections, interspersed with some questions I managed to fire at the guys in the last week. And to heighten the suspense, those intriguing posters from around town and the ‘Duckyl’ flyer for today’s show.


SL:
Your last Duckie collection (SS13) was described as being quite “tough” with lots of … Read More »


Autumn Look Around: violet, wings and the Argan trial

Posted on 29th October, by Colin Chapman in Mens Grooming, menswear. No Comments

It’s been a while. Something about those lengthy show reports and photo gallery editing after LFW/NYFW left me feeling a little drained by the fashion machine. So in a spirit of free-wheeling adventure, I’ll be posting a series of less formal Look Arounds, beyond the scope of the usual fashion searchlights, especially as London Collections: Men round 2 is not until January.

Inspirational image: Stephen Hardingham for The Wing Assignment
First up, this inspiring image by Stephen Hardingham has many of the qualities I’m relating to in menswear right now. The genius combination of feathers and tweed, in a disarming take on the pocket square, suggests timelessness, visual surprise and eccentricity. Though worthy of a fashion editorial, Stephen’s photo was one of the pieces chosen to be exhibited as part of The Wing Assignment, … Read More »


NYFW, SS13: Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown

Posted on 13th September, by Colin Chapman in New York Fashion Week. No Comments

On Tuesday, Duckie Brown presented their first Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown collection in New York. Always ones to clear the air, Steven and Daniel’s quickfire statement about the show was a clarification: “We haven’t re-created Perry Ellis, we’ve invented a new men’s wear collection.” We stand corrected. Nevertheless, expectations were high, as Perry, the familiar khakis-and-button-downs American brand, was given the Duckie Brown tailspin.Going up! Expectations were high for the Perry Ellis by Duckie Brown debut.

The hats! A table full of the minimal beauties.

Of course, the hats are the first thing to mention. Part riding hat, part baseball cap, in a velvety taupe, they gave uniformity to the collection, being worn by every model. Collection-wise, this baseline colour of tan-taupe was given subtle variations … Read More »

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