Tag: E. Tautz
Events for London Collections: Men SS17 got underway this evening on a bookish note, with the launch of a special ‘menswear library’ at the E.Tautz store in Mayfair. The exhibition, curated by Showstudio’s Lou Stoppard, is a special collaboration with Claire de Rouen, one of London’s most cherished art, fashion and photography bookstores. “You can tell so much about someone from their book collection and their favourite title”, commented Stoppard, “it was a real pleasure to chat to some of my favourite men in fashion about the menswear-related titles that they love.”
The eclectic range of photography titles on display (many being limited editions), spans topics from David Bowie (perhaps inevitably this year), to Disco and includes not one but two works by Wolfgang Tillmans. The books have been chosen by menswear influencers and commentators including Julian Ganio of Fantastic Man … Read More »
Day 2 of London Collections: Men is typically the busiest of the whole long weekend and AW16 was no exception, here are some personal highlights from a packed day of shows and presentations.
Charged with the unenviable 9.30 Saturday morning slot, E.Tautz nevertheless offered us some warming nostalgia to counteract the leaden skies outside on The Strand with a collection inspired by Patrick Grant’s youthful experiences growing up and going out in Edinburgh. Reflecting that city’s sombre elegance, the colour palette was largely shades of charcoal and sandstone. Wide-legged pleated trousers were layered with bombers featuring oversized epaulettes and capacious double-breasted coats. These soft, roomy shapes emphasised the youthful form of the models and in a sense, the indolent innocence of youth itself.
Agi & Sam
Gone are the days when an Agi & Sam collection meant cacophonous print and … Read More »
In the best tradition of LC:M, the fourth and final day exemplified the diversity of London’s showcase of menswear talent, from the Paul Smith event held on Savile Row to the hedonistic, polysexual world of Charles Jeffrey at Fashion East’s takeover of the ICA.
The day started with the reliably high taste values of E.Tautz. The collection this time was partially concerned with the concept of leisure time and the emergence of specific clothing to enjoy one’s leisure time in post War Britain. Patrick’s inspirations can often be read as being quite sombre, but the results are always extremely elegant, and, increasingly, particularly for summer, casual. Graphic print T-shirts, wide-legged raw denims and neat shorts had the easy-going grace of last summer’s British seaside-influenced collection with a more varied, modernistic appeal.
After putting his … Read More »
CIFF and CIFF RAVEN the Copenhagen International Fashion Fair (and its menswear extension), is set to follow-up its Shoreditch House bash a couple of weeks ago with a follow-up event at Soho House in Berlin this coming week, spreading the event’s reputation as one of the premier platforms of its kind in Northern Europe. The Shoreditch House celebration (in collaboration with Starworks PR group) brought some of London’s best -known fashion press and buyers to the ‘Secret Garden’ space on the roof of Shoreditch House where Horsemeat Disco’s DJ Severino provided a louche London soundtrack to the evening, and Scandi-style canapés were served. The profile of Danish fashion has been raised in London by Astrid Andersen’s shows at LC:M, and in the form of inimitable Danish fashion lecturer/designer Peter Jensen. CIFF of course … Read More »
I’m not sure I really believe in trends any more, neither do I want to facilitate the easy dilution of designers’ ideas through tidy generalisations. But call it collective consciousness, cultural synergy or simply a reaction to what’s gone before and inevitably, themes emerge after four days of menswear shows. Here are some of those I noted while attending dozens of shows across the full four days of London Collections:Men.
The colour pink
It would be a natural assumption to make that Sibling’s all pink collection was a starting point for this one (especially if there’s any doubt in your mind that such a theme exists at all) but actually, I’d first noted the use of dusky pink in Lou Dalton’s collection, on short printed scarves, a pink sweater and the on the shaggy inner lining of a coat. Furthermore, Casely-Hayford injected … Read More »
So, the fourth and longest ever London Collections: Men just ended and the fashion set already have their eyes trained on Florence, Milan and Paris (those that aren’t scouring the Internet for pics and opinions of Galliano’s return at Maison Margiela, that is). It’s a sad fact that after months of hard work on the part of designers, a collection either makes the headlines or it doesn’t, and even then, interest is fleeting as there is always another show, another city, another designer to focus on, especially in these super-fast days of Instagram gratification. I’m therefore cautious to be seen to be drawing too much of a definite line under anything, as there are still fuller stories to be told, images to be savoured and opinions to be reassessed and considered. But, from a very personal perspective here are my … Read More »
Today sees the launch of Patrick Grant’s book, Original Man – The Tautz Compendium of Less Ordinary Gentlemen. Perhaps the most articulate designer of his generation, what I’ve always appreciated about Patrick is his ability to tell a great story, from the beautifully compiled notes given out at E.Tautz shows to his recent TV work, so I’m guessing that his first book will be full of charm, well-chosen epigrams and the occasional LOL (the list of gentlemen featured includes Olly Reed and Ozzy Osbourne after all).
Published with the commendable intention of “inspiring readers to lead a less ordinary life” the book showcases more than 80 original men (including some personal heroes of mine like Yves Saint Laurent and Quentin Crisp), selected not for their sartorial prominence (there are … Read More »
I originally wrote this piece about London’s most exciting knitwear designers back in the summer, when thoughts of wooly jumpers and indeed winter itself felt like a distant prospect, stuffed away with the thermal undies, but here we now are in the first properly cold days of the season when a warm sweater makes perfect sense. This piece somehow got squeezed out of the publishing schedule it was intended for, but as some of London’s finest knitted garment designers gave me their time to divulge their thoughts on the art of the knit I’m sharing it with you here.
The humble sweater rarely gets media attention (unless it’s one of those pieces in the free papers celebrating ironic Christmas jumpers) but knitwear for men is becoming more creative and experimental. There will always be scope for a classic – a black … Read More »
With typical understatement, Swedish brand Our Legacy opened a store in London last week. Distinguished by a nifty neon sign, the store, located at the enigmatically named 1 Silver Place in Soho is evidence of the label’s particular success here in the UK. Since designing a range of T-shirts in 2005, co-founders Christopher Nying and Jockum Hallin have found a keen audience here for Our Legacy’s spare but elegant designs, the cut and their inventive use of fabrics finding harmony with a British sensibility in men’s fashion.
“We had been looking for a space here for a while; we wanted something magical and with character,” says Hallin of the new Soho store. “The UK has developed into a great market for us, especially in the past two years. We’ve thought a lot about that, and we’re not … Read More »
London Collections: Men ended last night in buoyant mood as the capital’s menswear industry rides high on a wave of seemingly ever-growing interest in men’s fashion. The London menswear showcase is now firmly on the map for American and Asian buyers visiting on their way to the European shows and there was more to see than ever and more people here to see it. I posted my initial impressions at the start of the week over on my Guardian page, but here are my thoughts from the remaining 2 days.
On Monday evening Richard Nicoll showed his trademark simple unfussy separates in refreshing whites, gingham check and with clashing patterns in red, yellow and blue colourways. Classic low profile Adidas lace-ups were accessorised by the inimitable Judy Blame. In fact styling … Read More »