Tag: E. Tautz
There was always a sense of history and storytelling in E.Tautz, from the intimate days when Patrick talked us through the collection to more recent shows in the vast space of The Old Sorting Office. In that more intimate past the story was often in the fabrication itself and needed to be interpreted or, better still, touched for the specialness of the pieces to be really understood. Backstories of the home knitters, the mills, the history of a fabric like Ventile were an essential part of the E.Tautz DNA then but recent collections have had a more wide-screen appeal, both in the presentation on a big stage and the literal impact of the clothing. A commenter on my Guardian-published round-up last week … Read More »
London Collections: Men ended on Wednesday, concluding the busiest schedule yet. Here are my favourite themes that emerged during the week.
While black is most definitely back, forest green and charcoal kept the mood sombre but provided slightly gentler, more natural alternatives at the shows this week. Matthew Miller showed deepest forest green to its best advantage on Tuesday but the muted colour was also seen at Oliver Spencer, Common, and YMC.
Strong, graphical lines – often scaled up to cover the width of garments – filled runways with moving modernist canvases. Seen at E.Tautz and Casely-Hayford but also present at Nicomede Talavera (a designer showing for the first time at talent incubator Fashion East‘s presentations) … Read More »
It’s not often I let the pictures do the talking (in fact, I’d argue that menswear currently has way too much much image sharing and not enough good writing), but reviewing these backstage pics from the E.Tautz SS14 show a couple of weeks ago now, I’m struck by the way the images tell the story in their own right.
While focusing on the hair and make up by Toni & Guy and the Vidal Sassoon teams, the photos here also show the build up to the boys getting into their first outfits. I’ve been backstage at an E.Tautz show before and am always impressed by Patrick‘s calm … Read More »
During the packed schedule at three days of London Collections: Men, it’s easy for things to start to blur but certain experiences stay with you. And it’s not just about the clothes. The spectacle and theatre of catwalk and installations creates powerful moments when music, space, lighting and a load of beautiful-looking people are brought together for a few dazzling minutes. Here are some of the things I’m mulling over now the shows and presentations are over.
LC:M is memorable for more than what is presented on the catwalk. With hundreds of stylish buyers, journalists, editors and bloggers on show for three days, it’s a perfect opportunity to see what men in the industry are actually wearing. One note I picked up on was a certain relaxed, less buttoned-up approach to dressing (lets ignore the truckloads of pocket squares for now), … Read More »
Patrick Grant’s little talks at the start of each E.Tautz collection are one of the givens of the menswear season in London, bringing a touch of intimacy and old-school charm to the experience of attending a fashion show. Whilst the echoing blank canvas of The Sorting Office space made such a verbal introduction impossible this time, the austerity of the space meant that the AW13 collection was left to create its own sense of drama and occasion. The pacing was unique in the Collections, no straight-out-of-Hackney-Wick striding here, instead there was time for the models (and us) to breathe between looks. A stirring soundtrack – Ultravox’s Vienna was particularly poignant – added to the sense of spaciousness.
For many of London’s menswear designers, Christmas 2012 will be remembered more for a lot of hard work than traditional festive over-indulgence. In a festive tribute to their renewed efforts today, I’m picking up where I left off as well, with my series of tasters for LC:M, AW13.
Today’s post features a brief chat with Patrick Grant, of E.Tautz, always one of the most anticipated London menswear shows.
SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?
PG: Crofters cottages, not hanging out your washing on a Sunday, bad sixties wallpaper, rusty old cars.
SL: Last time we met, you were saying that the … Read More »
With less than a week to go now until the launch of London Collections: Men, it seems very fitting to be posting about the house of E.Tautz and it’s designer, Patrick Grant. Last season I witnessed Patrick backstage, remarkably calm whilst models took their final walks (hairclips still in place) and this sense of quiet yet purposeful confidence is a great sentiment I think to be carrying forward as next week’s schedule kicks in. E.Tautz would inevitably end up on any list I drew up of the best of London menswear, and has long been championed by me here because of the unique mix of history with a thoroughly modern approach to designing clothes for men. Patrick’s singular vision … Read More »
With just two weeks to go, I thought I’d share some of my hopes and excitement about the newly extended menswear ‘week’ in London. Leading men’s fashion editors like New York Times’ T Magazine’s Bruce Pask are coming to town, to attend not only the shows but a rather glittering array of parties and launches, hosted by the likes of Prince Charles and Tom Ford. Menswear day: London Fashion Week‘s little brother has come of age it seems, and the eyes of the world will be bearing down on us, or at least those who care anything about fashion for men.
With mens fashion featured for a full week, including an intensive 3-day weekend of menswear only events, the spread is wider than the singular Menswear Day of the last few seasons. In true London style, … Read More »
Backstage at E.Tautz yesterday I was struck by the sense of calm and orderliness. Models in hair clips were being given final instructions on pace and demeanor, outbreaks of Estuary English accent adding grit to the vision the Toni & Guy team had perfected, as though one could suddenly hear the voices of the powdered, coiffed cast of a silent-era military epic. One had a sense of Patrick Grant as captain at the helm of a tight, sleek and exceptionally well groomed company of men, with none of the sense of panic or chaos one imagines backstage.
From the pre-show notes I was already aware that the collection was inspired by the work of Richard Serra, and took other reference points from military cloaks. Freemason’s Hall was the perfect setting for the very dramatic collection, … Read More »
Pathos isn’t typically an emotion one expects from a show at London Fashion Week but as orchestral strings struck the opening note at Lou Dalton’s show there was an instant sense of heartstrings being tugged too. Here was a story. Which made perfect sense after reading the press release which explains the collection’s inspiration in a simple wartime love story between a conscripted officer and a local land girl. This simple narrative context provided Dalton with an opportunity to mix military and country garments, a combination which perfectly lends itself to her ongoing exploration of traditional English country attire. I loved the idea of a wardrobe begged and borrowed to withstand hardship, assembled through the need for warmth and practicality (an idea reminding me of the E.Tautz mix of sportswear and warm layers from the ‘Cuban Olympians’ collection a few seasons ago) and creating one-off fusions of old and new in the process.