Tag: General Idea

NYFW AW15: Details to savour from the menswear shows

Posted on 19th February, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 1 Comment

As I share my highlights from the week, it’s time to wave goodbye to New York, though this time it’s more of a ‘see you later’ as we’ll be right back here again in July for the inaugural menswear week.

I’ve already reviewed Duckie Brown in detail, but here are some details from the other collections I particularly enjoyed this trip. There are some familiar names here, as certain New York talents continue to plough as steady furrow through the dross of mainstream menswear, but as ever, I was interested to discover the newer names around town. With the likes of Astrid Andersen and Bobby Abley showing in the city, it’s also interesting to see if some of the fierce lustre of the street-ier aspects of LC:M will rub off over here.

N. Hoolywood
Bettering … Read More »

New York menswear, before, during and after Fashion Week

Posted on 13th February, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

New York fashion week is underway, and as ever, the menswear shows will play their part, lightly peppered across the schedule, and often held at smaller, more intimate locations than the media carnival around the major league womenswear shows at the Lincoln Centre. During fashion week, the island of Manhattan is invaded by an army of fashionable women (and some men) from across the U.S., the former generally rivaling the tall buildings in their heels, all seemingly in a constant rush and making as much noise about it as possible. The menswear shows tend to have a more sedate feel, as a select and recognisable crew gathers in warehouse spaces and studios around Chelsea and the Meatpacking District to demonstrate their allegiance to the idea of men’s fashion in New York.

But changes are afoot, with the recent announcement … Read More »

Menswear at New York fashion week reviewed

Posted on 12th September, by Colin Chapman in New York, New York Fashion Week. 1 Comment

My round up from The Guardian earlier this week, in case you missed it there or aren’t a Guardian visitor.

New York fashion week concludes soon and the more interesting menswear shows this week demonstrated that beneath the city’s reputation for understatement beats a less conventional heart

Duckie Brown

Duckie Brown are New York’s premier menswear experimentalists, and on Friday among the most surprising pieces in their collection were skirts and aprons inspired by sportswear and uniforms, shown alongside classic shapes such as bomber jackets and shorts. The idea of men in skirts still provokes strong reactions, which is why bolder menswear designers continue to return to it.

This collection was grounded in solid colours reminiscent of uniforms – navy, grey and khaki – and paired up with the solid heft of the … Read More »

NYFW, SS13: General Idea’s psychedelic lumberjacks

Posted on 19th September, by Colin Chapman in New York Fashion Week. No Comments

I have to admit to my heart sinking slightly when reading the title of General Idea’s show at Eyebeam studio in New York during NYFW: The Last Lumberjack. But I should have trusted that Korean designer Bumsuk Choi’s creative vision would be far more interesting than just another encounter with American heritagewear. From the first look, involving a revitalised camo fabric shot through with neon green, this was a collection that tantalised the eye with colour.

And then I spotted the shoes… chunky, outdoorsy hiking boots and tough looking trainer hybrids, again with neon highlights. Not dissimilar to the neon colours used by Prada in the more outré (and little photographed) end of their recent golfing-inspired footwear line, the bright pinks, oranges and neon yellow make these sturdy looking shoes instantly modern, urban and relevant. Styling throughout focused on the combination … Read More »

New York Fashion Week Diary: SS13

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in 2013, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

Designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow presented a subversive and very European spin on classic layers at Milk on Sunday. The blazers, signature biker jackets, mesh layers and and big kudos for the solid-colour white and navy Doc Marten shoes.

Public School, presentation Sunday 9 September

One of the strongest looks, all white, featuring layered hems and a beautiful padded biker gilet.

The New York Time’s Bruce Pask gets the designer walk-through treatment from Dao-Yi Chow.

The collision of the facial tattoo trend and it-boy model in one person doesn’t detract from this strong tailored jacket.

Rochambeau, presentation Sunday 9 September
One of the benefits of the scrum of menswear day at Milk studios was being able to sneak into neighbouring presentations. I’m so glad I did when it came to Rochambeau. An impactful presentation inspired by the … Read More »

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