Grenson x LC:M designer collaborations: Sibling, Katie Eary, Matthew Miller, Agi & Sam, Christopher Raeburn, Craig Green.
Showing a very timely allegiance to London’s up-and-coming menswear designers, Grenson has just announced a range of collaborations with the cream of LC:M designers, available through Mr Porter. Following three successful seasons of working with designer Lou Dalton on footwear for her collections, this surely makes Grenson THE British shoemaker most aligned with the new generation of design talent in our menswear industry. Usually when such a batch of collaborations is announced, there are obvious hits among the range and others likely to languish in the Sale corner. For once, I’m having a difficult time choosing a favourite, though Matthew Miller‘s crocodile embossed leather derbies and Agi & Sam’s very grown-up monkstraps are most definitely contenders. Following the announcement of a flagship … Read More »
London Collections: Men ended on Wednesday, concluding the busiest schedule yet. Here are my favourite themes that emerged during the week.
While black is most definitely back, forest green and charcoal kept the mood sombre but provided slightly gentler, more natural alternatives at the shows this week. Matthew Miller showed deepest forest green to its best advantage on Tuesday but the muted colour was also seen at Oliver Spencer, Common, and YMC.
Strong, graphical lines – often scaled up to cover the width of garments – filled runways with moving modernist canvases. Seen at E.Tautz and Casely-Hayford but also present at Nicomede Talavera (a designer showing for the first time at talent incubator Fashion East‘s presentations) … Read More »
English shoemaker Grenson has brought it’s ‘Lab’,complete with white-coated assistants, to the men’s shoe department at Liberty, in response to demand following the highly acclaimed shoe-design lab for women at the department store last year. If any further proof were needed that the appetite for men’s shoes has already caught up with women’s (I for one don’t need convincing) this might be it.
Displayed across a suitably stark white counter, the Lab lets you choose from soles, laces, eyelets and of course, the leathers for your dream shoes. While there’s the freedom to make a self-identifed pig’s ear of it should you wish, classy examples are on display to guide your eye towards wise combinations and luxurious pairings (I have my eye on the black leather and suede brogues with chunky black soles … Read More »
Lou Dalton opened London Collections: Men again this season, this time with a new, less-fitted spin on her tailored sportswear aesthetic. Inspired by the rootless life of a young nomad, the collection is filled with intriguing details from this story, part RAF aviation field, part artist studio.
1.The music was, once again, brilliant. The Smiths How Soon is Now? and the original 12” version of Bauhaus’s Bela Lugosi’s Dead in particular, with its eerie, twitchy rhythms, established a darker, more somber mood for Lou’s show this season. Jim Stanton of Horsemeat Disco crafted the soundtrack, with his usual flair for pressing just the right emotional buttons.
2.She redefined the shorts suit. I often find the combination of a blazer and shorts can look prissy, but something about the ‘pyjama jacket’ overshirt … Read More »
In less than a Manhattan minute, the menswear shows will be happening in New York, bringing a month of men’s fashion to a close. And what a month it’s been! Even if you didn’t get to attend the shows in person, in 2013 you could sit ‘front row’ in the comfort of your own living room with the major presentations (Prada, Louis Vuitton etc) being streamed live, and unprecedented coverage in the press and digital media. For designers, now is when the real work starts: selling their cherished designs to the buyers that matter and getting the right press.
A good moment then, to pause and sift through it all. And with personal orders events cropping up as designers return to London, it’s time to make some decisions.
Almost a week ago, Lou Dalton opened London Collections Men: AW13, presenting her collection to an attentive crowd primed for a week of looking at fashion for men. Whilst being the opening act will never be an easy gig, Lou is a perfect choice for this particular role. From the very first look, there was an air of calm accomplishment about her work and under her steady hand, London Collections: Men AW13 was starting out pitch perfect.
It feels right to be reviewing this collection now. By the end of the week of looking at beautiful garments on striking looking men, there is a sense of blur. As much as you want to see more, there is an element of visual fatigue, so going back to the start now feels right.
The City-boy formality of the opening looks … Read More »
Wedge or ripple, Sir? And no, I’m not asking you for you choice of summer ice cream, but, in fact, to choose your shoe sole of choice. White Vibram soles are still widely seen on the street but as an acclaimed trend, the black ridged sole has it cornered. And Grenson has both on offer for SS12. Grenson make some of the most comfortable, and well made shoes out there. On trend, but unlikely to get you caught out in a microtrend that finishes badly, they’ve moved into first place in my hunt for something on the sturdier side for those less temperate spring days with a Vibram soled brogue in a beautiful, burnished grey.
Spring is definitely here, and with it the final Spring Shoe Watch of the season. I have to confess … Read More »