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James Long

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JW Anderson Having grabbed the headlines with his Grindr-hosted live stream, there was little that JW Andersen would do to raise eyebrows any further, given that his designs are already renowned for their off kilter, gender defying singularity. Looks including satin pyjamas in pastel colours and a cropped floral quilted…


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This morning, James Long presented his collection for next spring/summer in London Collections: Men’s most capacious venues, The Old Sorting Office. The show notes talked about James finding inspiration in people who seem “natural” in their clothing, free spirits for whom blending in is rarely an option. Moments after the…


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James Long James Long brought charm to London Collections: Men on a gloomy Sunday morning, featuring his signature bohemian knitwear and denim and, in this instance, bespoke fabrics featuring hand drawings by James Davison. Inspired by the carefree spirit of “people who think they are blending in, but they’re totally…


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A decade ago Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy and Topman came together to create London’s first support scheme for new menswear design. The list of talent nurtured by the initiative since then is nothing less than a roll call of some of the most discussed and critically acclaimed designers of this…


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I’m not sure I really believe in trends any more, neither do I want to facilitate the easy dilution of designers’ ideas through tidy generalisations. But call it collective consciousness, cultural synergy or simply a reaction to what’s gone before and inevitably, themes emerge after four days of menswear shows.…


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By the third day, London Collections: Men began to feel like a marathon with another busy day of shows and presentations across the gamut of menswear; from edgy, emerging talent to mega brands and some of London’s most established designers. Again, I’m limiting myself to one image from each of…


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London Collections: Men ended last night in buoyant mood as the capital’s menswear industry rides high on a wave of seemingly ever-growing interest in men’s fashion. The London menswear showcase is now firmly on the map for American and Asian buyers visiting on their way to the European shows and…


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Acquiring some exclusive, one-off items by some of London’s finest youngest menswear designers is quite honestly something I’d usually keep hush-hush, especially when the names involved include staunch Sharpened Lead favourites James Long, Martine Rose, Lou Dalton, Sibling and Christopher Shannon. For reasons beyond my control, I’m not able to make…


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I’m finding it really hard to separate what I saw in London today and in New York over a week ago, in terms of what we may be wearing when the light returns to us next Spring. Add to that, the distraction of current streetwear trends, spottted between Shoreditch and Williamsburg, especially in our globally-warmed times..

But here goes: 10 trends from London’s Menswear Day, 22 September 2010

1. The Great Outdoors: Waxed, outdoor, wipeclean, waterproof fabrics (from Carolyn Massey’s extended cagoule pockets, to Lou Dalton’s Anglo-trad waxing), if you’re going to get wet, be waterproof.

2. Statement Sweaters: A crossover trend from womenswear (hello Henry Holland’s cutie giraffes and foxy foxes). From Carolyn’s jazzy Deco stripe, to Sibling’s Pop Art Punk to Tigersushi Furs’ colourful tigers. It’s like graphic sweaters never happened.

3. Shorts with jackets: In other, words, the short trouser lives to see another season of Alexis Petridis-flouting urban retaliation. Men got hot legs living in the big city. And short trousers need not mean schoolboy. Seen at Lou Dalton and Carolyn Massey and just about everywhere else.

4. Visible layers: the old ‘playing with proportion chestnut’. This doesn’t just mean not tucking in your shirt, though long T-shirts worn with shorter sweaters are a definite trend. Seen at: Carolyn Massey (and at Duckie Brown in NY).

5. Backpacks and camping. Also a trend for A/W. But let’s face it, aren’t you more likely to be carrying stuff somewhere meaningful outdoors when the sun’s shining? Brownie points for detail at Carolyn Massey, where the rucksacks looked positively sombre (and at Patrik Ervell, NY, where the straps were of woven horsehair).

6. Military details. Again, this is a current trend likely to be still aflame come the Spring/Summer. Olive greens, military khakis. Basically: raid your local Army Surplus store and, where possible; customise, wear stuff inside out and generally subvert it’s regulated purpose. Olive green waxed jacket seen at Lou Dalton, military pockets/cargo at Casely Hayford, and a trend that will run and run, a bit like plaid.

7. Biker. Ah, yes. Are we just working through the entire back catalogue of classic Americana? Best seen when it’s not actually in leather: Casely Hayford faux denim, Sibling knitwear etc.

8. Mustard, brick, rust, peach. Let’s just drag the colour slider over to the reds and yellows section. Colours of earth and mud. From Carolyn Massey’s Colman’s mustard waterproofs to James Long’s oil print spillages.

9. Elasticated hems. Blouson! Add an 80s touch to any outfit. See New Power Studio’s sportswear.

10. Eclectic, patchwork madness. Yes, that IS a theme. From Lou Dalton’s carefully placed, ethnic panelling, to James Long’s inky colour explosions, to the doily-clad chaos of J.W Anderson it’s partly about extravagant mixture. Long and short. Patterned and plain. Functional and exotic. It’s a long way from considered urbanity or preppy uniformity. Let’s get messy!

Bubbling under: encroaching darkness (ASOS Black, NY’s Oak), and the likelihood of a spin-off trend of raised soles once Prada’s ‘platform’ men’s shoes hit the expensivo racks next Spring . OK, this was about LONDON right? but we’re a badly defended island as far as fashion influence goes (and long may that continue).


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