Tag: Kit Neale


London Collections: Men, AW15: Day 1 Highlights

Posted on 9th January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

My first stop this morning was the London College of Fashion’s MA menswear show, a 25 minutes ‘best of’ showcase, where for me, the standouts were Emma Fenton Villar’s textural sportswear, Thien Trang Bui’s supremely elegant, shimmering tailoring and Jasmine Haoyao Deng’s colourful textiles.




Topman Design
In terms of the official schedule, things got off to a high-energy start at Topman Design with an unlikely fusion of hippy-trail flowing Afghan coats and testicle-hugging Bay City Roller suits (the collection was titled Bombay City Rollers). Brilliantly styled by Luke Day, the looks featured big hair with heavy fringes on swaggering lads with rock and roll intent. The glam rock sound track got everyone smiling at least.


MAN
There was more swagger on display at MAN where Liam … Read More »


London Collections Men: January 2015, who I’m most looking forward to seeing

Posted on 8th January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

A month of menswear kicks off tomorrow with London Collections: Men, now a four-day event. Back in the day (2011 to be precise, when it was still called Menswear Day), a handful of enthusiastic journos, buyers, bloggers and me squeezed into compact rooms at Somerset House to watch London’s menswear talent present their collections. The atmosphere crackled with expectation, alive with cherished dreams of recognition and just the very newness of it all, despite those cramped surroundings. These days its the schedule that’s packed, with headline talent such as Burberry on the agenda, and the full span of London’s menswear on display – from East London’s latest enfants terribles to big league brands and Savile Row tailoring houses.

Here are some of the shows I’m personally looking forward to.

Kit Neale
Kit Neale is a great talent who I’ve supported, cheered on and … Read More »


LC:M SS15 report, days 2 and 3

Posted on 18th June, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

London Collections: Men ended last night in buoyant mood as the capital’s menswear industry rides high on a wave of seemingly ever-growing interest in men’s fashion. The London menswear showcase is now firmly on the map for American and Asian buyers visiting on their way to the European shows and there was more to see than ever and more people here to see it. I posted my initial impressions at the start of the week over on my Guardian page, but here are my thoughts from the remaining 2 days.

On Monday evening Richard Nicoll showed his trademark simple unfussy separates in refreshing whites, gingham check and with clashing patterns in red, yellow and blue colourways. Classic low profile Adidas lace-ups were accessorised by the inimitable Judy Blame. In fact styling … Read More »


LCM Preview: Kit Neale SS15

Posted on 16th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

Last week I caught up with menswear designer Kit Neale in his studio. Originally known for his prints, as a designer Kit’s range is becoming known for perfectly proportioned casual wear such as jean jackets and bombers, and last season brought surprise in the form of beautiful jacquard fabrics alongside the signature prints. I was looking forward to seeing what Kit has in store for us in SS15.

Moving on from explorations of London’s less celebrated quarters (Autumn/Winter was inspired by the decaying Elephant & Castle shopping centre) next summer stretches those horizons slightly, “it’s Kit Neale goes on holiday” Kit explained, “I got sick of people asking what part of London we were going to do … Read More »


5 reasons to be excited about LC:M SS15

Posted on 12th June, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

In just three days time London Collections:Men will launch the SS15 season. Having grown from a single day to three packed ones with the speed of a monstrous puppy on hormones, the menswear industry’s attention will be on London’s bi-annual menswear showcase from Sunday onwards, as young design talent, established designers and a whole load of dressed up people draw stares from the regular folk of Covent Garden and the electronic eyes of a million Instagram accounts at once. With the invites still rolling in, I take a moment to assess what’s really exciting me so far.

1. Sibling Sibling’s invites simply get better as the trio’s renown grows. After last season’s working class man homage, this wonderful invite featuring a gravity-defying Gothic quiff taps into the deep grain of London counterculture from which Cozette, Sid and Joe derive such pleasure. … Read More »


Ratty threads: what I loved about Kit Neale AW14

Posted on 16th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. No Comments

For the two previous seasons of LCM I’ve had the pleasure of dropping into the Kit Neale studio to get an insight into the brand’s inspirations as designers and to see the collection come together, becoming addicted in the process to the Kit Neale pop-art-coloured view of the world. Conflicting schedules meant previews didn’t happen for me this season so I had the quite different excitement of seeing the collection fresh out of the box. For AW14, inspiration shifted (via a quick shunt up the Old Kent Road) from the world of Peckham chicken shops and weave salons to the terminally-in-demise Elephant & Castle shopping centre. Displayed on piles of iconic debris, … Read More »


London Collections Men AW14: in review

Posted on 11th January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

London Collections: Men ended on Wednesday, concluding the busiest schedule yet. Here are my favourite themes that emerged during the week.

Forest green
While black is most definitely back, forest green and charcoal kept the mood sombre but provided slightly gentler, more natural alternatives at the shows this week. Matthew Miller showed deepest forest green to its best advantage on Tuesday but the muted colour was also seen at Oliver Spencer, Common, and YMC.

Bold lines
Strong, graphical lines – often scaled up to cover the width of garments – filled runways with moving modernist canvases. Seen at E.Tautz and Casely-Hayford but also present at Nicomede Talavera (a designer showing for the first time at talent incubator Fashion East‘s presentations) … Read More »


Dazed release ‘shoppable videos’ styled by Kit Neale and Charlie Casely-Hayford

Posted on 18th November, by Colin Chapman in Casely-Hayford, Film and fashion, menswear. No Comments

Just released are these ‘shoppable videos’ styled by Sharpened Lead favourites Kit Neale and Charlie Casely-Hayford produced in collaboration with Dazed and Confused magazine and featuring clothing by Italian menswear brand Antony Morato.

I’m quite blown away by the technology (provided by wireWax) – the next logical step on from those shoppable tabloid stories, but applied to the visions of of Kit and Charlie, actually something quite beautiful. Film is definitely evolving as an obvious vehicle for fashion stories, not only is … Read More »


It’s more than just clothes: LC:M SS14 on my mind

Posted on 20th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

During the packed schedule at three days of London Collections: Men, it’s easy for things to start to blur but certain experiences stay with you. And it’s not just about the clothes. The spectacle and theatre of catwalk and installations creates powerful moments when music, space, lighting and a load of beautiful-looking people are brought together for a few dazzling minutes. Here are some of the things I’m mulling over now the shows and presentations are over.

Denim
LC:M is memorable for more than what is presented on the catwalk. With hundreds of stylish buyers, journalists, editors and bloggers on show for three days, it’s a perfect opportunity to see what men in the industry are actually wearing. One note I picked up on was a certain relaxed, less buttoned-up approach to dressing (lets ignore the truckloads of pocket squares for now), … Read More »


LC:M SS14, In the studio with Kit Neale

Posted on 15th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, On the Radar, Studio Visit. 1 Comment

Last season I met up with Kit Neale, in his studio off Kingsland Road in central East London, to discuss his then upcoming collection for Fashion East, one of London’s menswear’s best regarded platforms for emerging fashion talent. Known for his punchy prints, which have incorporated seafood and allotment vegetables amongst other motifs, I was curious to learn whether Kit was at all worried that fashion’s love affair with print had reached its zenith.

Six months later, I’m back in Kit’s studio: there are are fresh moodboards and sketches all over the … Read More »

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