Tag: LC:M AW13


Meadham Kirchhoff men’s AW13: bin bags and Byronic dandies

Posted on 20th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

“It’s finished,” said the bouncer on the door at Meadham Kirchhoff’s AW13 menswear presentation, “You missed it by 30 seconds.” “Can I go and look at the debris?”, I replied, having noticed the stacks of bin bags making up the set, hinting at something quite apocalyptic inside. Flashing an obviously rare smile, he stepped back to let me in.

I was fortunate: the models were still standing in place to facilitate a last-minute photo shoot, the designers themselves passing me on their way out. Meadham Kirchhoff’s presentation last season was my favourite experience at the first London Collections: Men, hence my keenness not to miss the follow up. That mad squat filled with the scent of over-blown blooms, boys with pink hair and visibly alarmed fashion editors keeping … Read More »


Agi and Sam AW13: like classic portraiture come to life in Disney colours

Posted on 17th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 2 Comments

So much has already been said about Agi & Sam‘s collection shown as part of MAN AW13, or more accurately, has been shared. Images of designers Patrick Grant and William R. Green rouged-up and walking in the show, the basset hounds! the Marquess of Bath-alike! all proved infinitely shareable as a delighted crowd were caught up in the infectious buzz and sense of fun and got busy with social media.

But in reviewing the images again now, what strikes me is what an elegant and grown up collection it is. “We tried so hard to mature the collection without losing the fun” said they duo as I offered my congratulations after the show. And that effort really comes across. As a development from last season their use of colour and print is much more precise, the overall … Read More »


Round up: London Collections Men, AW13

Posted on 11th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

The second London Collections: Men finished on Wednesday, with a Peter Werth x Nutter’s show where the models broke out into Northern Soul dance moves. It seemed a fitting ending to three days of fashion shows, installations, presentations and events that not only seemed more confident, cumulatively, but also possessed a collective sense of fun. Whether it was a ruddy-cheeked Patrick Grant walking the Agi&Sam runway with accompanying basset hound, Sibling’s ‘knit monsters’ in giant mittens, boys in flying saucers at Fashion East or the thigh-flashing peplum-shorts for men at JW Anderson, London’s fashion statement to the world seemed to be: don’t take everything so seriously. But alongside the British sense of humour, there was the equally typical love of provocation running through many shows, either as direct statements at Matthew Miller and YMC, or in the more general sense of … Read More »


LCM: AW13, Baartmans and Siegel in the studio

Posted on 9th January, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

It’s not often I feel overwhelmed after leaving a designer’s studio but my visit to Baartmans and Siegel before Christmas left me reeling slightly from all the luxury and the amazing materials I’d touched. Maybe it had something to do with Amber insisting I try much of the collection on, which meant I felt the weight, the comfort and the sheer sensual pleasure of wearing such beautiful clothes and connecting with them off the rail.

I love meeting designers who are very inspired by what they do, and Baartmans and Siegel are clearly very inspired. For designers whose backgrounds span Marc Jacobs and Viktor and Rolf they remain affable, approachable and clearly in love with their craft. The details of our chat ranged from scratch and sniff cherry fragrance to Amber’s love of Jeff Bridges, and the fashion-y pleasures of a perfect gliding zip, quality buttons and the production of yak wool.


LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Baartmans and Siegel

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

My final anticipatory post for LC:M is a departure from the Q&A and studio visits I’ve been working on since early December. It’s not that I didn’t visit the lovely Amber Siegel and Wouter Baartmans in their Hackney studio, but I was so overexcited about being given the opportunity to actually try on the collection that a Q&A format really wouldn’t do justice to that sensual experience now. So this is a post in two halves, first up here’s a little insight into their inspirations for AW13. A post with detailed pics of my favourite pieces from the studio visit is still to come, once the collection is no longer under wraps.

And of course I’ll be poring over the presentation pics and sharing that experience with you after Wednesday.

For now, it’s all … Read More »


LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Martine Rose

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

With LC:M almost upon us, it’s time for my final posts with some of London’s brightest and most anticipated menswear talent. Next up is Martine Rose, who can always be relied upon to bring a cerebral approach, very much balanced by a grittier awareness of street culture.  This season we’ve been advised to get to our seats for Martine’s presentation in good time as the presentation will be “a performance.” The intriguing playing card invite suggests both regal finery and roguish gambling knaves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s what Martine had to say when we caught up:

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?

MR: Sovereignty, status, ghetto kings. It started after I came back from Jamaica in the summer, I was so inspired by the rasta community there, even in … Read More »


LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Patrick Grant of E.Tautz

Posted on 27th December, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

For many of London’s menswear designers, Christmas 2012 will be remembered more for a lot of hard work than traditional festive over-indulgence. In a festive tribute to their renewed efforts today, I’m picking up where I left off as well, with my series of tasters for LC:M, AW13.

Today’s post features a brief chat with Patrick Grant, of E.Tautz, always one of the most anticipated London menswear shows.

Photo of Patrick Grant by Jonathan Daniel Pryce from his recommended 100 Days 100 Beards project and book.

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?

PG: Crofters cottages, not hanging out your washing on a Sunday, bad sixties wallpaper, rusty old cars.

SL: Last time we met, you were saying that the … Read More »


LC:M AW13, in the wings with Lou Dalton

Posted on 21st December, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

For many London’s menswear designers, Christmas 2012 will be remembered more for a lot of hard work than traditional festive over-indulgence. Over the last 2 weeks, I grabbed time with some of London’s brightest and most anticipated menswear talent to get a taster of what they’re planning for the next round of London Collections: Men. Despite frantic scenes involving whirring sewing machines, overheated steam irons, and missing invites, as ever, London’s menswear talent were gracious enough to let me peek inside their studios.

Next up is Sharpened Lead favourite and hard grafter, Lou Dalton who as tradition has it, kicks off a week’s events with the opening show of the week.

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?
LD: The Shetland Isles, The Film “Local Hero”,a couple of scenes from “Ryans … Read More »

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