Next up in my visual scrapbook from the recent London Collections for men the theme is colour. Once again my intention isn’t to draw attention to trends necessarily, but simply to take a slice of the visual experience of the shows as being about colour. From ‘warm your hands’ orange to soft pastels, bottomless black vinyl and everything in-between, here are some of my favourite colour moments from AW13.
Details at foot of page.
Images: 1 and 2: Agi & Sam, 3: Topman Design, 4: Jonathan Saunders, 5: Xander Zhou, 6: Meadham Kirchhoff, 7: J.W. Anderson, 8: Sibling, 9: Lou Dalton.
Patrick Grant’s little talks at the start of each E.Tautz collection are one of the givens of the menswear season in London, bringing a touch of intimacy and old-school charm to the experience of attending a fashion show. Whilst the echoing blank canvas of The Sorting Office space made such a verbal introduction impossible this time, the austerity of the space meant that the AW13 collection was left to create its own sense of drama and occasion. The pacing was unique in the Collections, no straight-out-of-Hackney-Wick striding here, instead there was time for the models (and us) to breathe between looks. A stirring soundtrack – Ultravox’s Vienna was particularly poignant – added to the sense of spaciousness.
In the midst of reviewing the LC:M shows, especially going through the thousands of photos on my hard drive, certain themes start to emerge. Some trends, yes, but also ways of thinking about the visual experience of being there. So, alongside analysis of shows I particularly enjoyed, I’ve decided to share with you a series of primarily visual scrapbooks from the latest Collections in London.
My first theme is Installations and Performance. Since London’s Menswear Day evolved into a fully fledged Week one thing has remained clear: London really shines in terms of how men’s fashion is presented at installations and in more performance-driven shows. Most people are familiar with the idea of a runway show and backstage footage is now a staple in the media. It also doesn’t take much imagination to envisage what happens at a fashion trade show: … Read More »
Almost a week ago, Lou Dalton opened London Collections Men: AW13, presenting her collection to an attentive crowd primed for a week of looking at fashion for men. Whilst being the opening act will never be an easy gig, Lou is a perfect choice for this particular role. From the very first look, there was an air of calm accomplishment about her work and under her steady hand, London Collections: Men AW13 was starting out pitch perfect.
It feels right to be reviewing this collection now. By the end of the week of looking at beautiful garments on striking looking men, there is a sense of blur. As much as you want to see more, there is an element of visual fatigue, so going back to the start now feels right.
The City-boy formality of the opening looks … Read More »