Day 2 of London Collections: Men is typically the busiest of the whole long weekend and AW16 was no exception, here are some personal highlights from a packed day of shows and presentations.
Charged with the unenviable 9.30 Saturday morning slot, E.Tautz nevertheless offered us some warming nostalgia to counteract the leaden skies outside on The Strand with a collection inspired by Patrick Grant’s youthful experiences growing up and going out in Edinburgh. Reflecting that city’s sombre elegance, the colour palette was largely shades of charcoal and sandstone. Wide-legged pleated trousers were layered with bombers featuring oversized epaulettes and capacious double-breasted coats. These soft, roomy shapes emphasised the youthful form of the models and in a sense, the indolent innocence of youth itself.
Agi & Sam
Gone are the days when an Agi & Sam collection meant cacophonous print and … Read More »
The Other Art Fair opened last night with a private view, thronged with art lovers circling the stands with great enthusiasm (particularly after a visit to the Fever-Tree G&T bar). The event which spans this weekend, enables artists to represent their own work, and make connections with customers eager to buy a piece of art to take home. The general absence of gallerists and professional collectors makes The Other Art Fair a much more relaxed affair than the likes of Frieze, but in no sense is the work on show any less interesting or collectible. Indeed, as “visiting artist” Gavin Turk was the solitary big-league YBA presence but there is a wealth of lesser-known talent to explore, with photography, illustration and painting particularly in evidence. Highlights for me included Dan Hillier’s breathtaking … Read More »
Better known for putting what’s on the shop rails at high-end boutiques the world over within reach of your laptop via a single, digital storefront, FarFetch has just released a book on food culture: FarFetch Curates: Food with luxury book publisher Prosper and Martine Assouline.
Drawing on the local expertise of the digital fashion brand’s inevitably widespread network, the book focuses on the finest food and drink experiences to be had around the world. With a foreword by Tim Blanks, the links between food and fashion are strongly established from the outset. As Blanks himself notes, curation is one of the defining words and activities of our times, social media making us all ‘curators’, with fashion and food being familiar tag mates on Instagram brunch shares the world over.
Hopefully you’ll be relieved to hear it’s not all about … Read More »
Day two at London Collections: Men has been quite phenomenal, picking up the pace with shows spanning morning to late evening and showcasing the range of menswear talent in London. As this is a highlights piece, I’ve decided to try and limit myself to one image per designer, a bit challenging to be honest, as I’ve seen so many beautiful things today.
As a fashion commentator, there is a risk of covering the same designers over and over, particularly when you get to know them and their their work intimately. Lou Dalton is a mainstay across all my fashion writing, a touchstone for what I refer to when people ask me what defines good menswear in London currently, and I make no apology for that. This morning’s show was one of her best ever, ramped up by some incredible fabrics … Read More »
My first stop this morning was the London College of Fashion’s MA menswear show, a 25 minutes ‘best of’ showcase, where for me, the standouts were Emma Fenton Villar’s textural sportswear, Thien Trang Bui’s supremely elegant, shimmering tailoring and Jasmine Haoyao Deng’s colourful textiles.
In terms of the official schedule, things got off to a high-energy start at Topman Design with an unlikely fusion of hippy-trail flowing Afghan coats and testicle-hugging Bay City Roller suits (the collection was titled Bombay City Rollers). Brilliantly styled by Luke Day, the looks featured big hair with heavy fringes on swaggering lads with rock and roll intent. The glam rock sound track got everyone smiling at least.
There was more swagger on display at MAN where Liam … Read More »
Last night I attended a talk with Meadham Kirchhoff at Bath in Fashion, the annual fashion event that takes place over several days in the city of Bath. In fact, only Benjamin Kirchhoff (the French half of Meadham Kirchhoff), without his more flamboyant, other half Edward Meadham, was present to talk to Sarah Mower, the contributing editor to US Vogue, but as it turned out his solitary presence was still impressive.
So why was I there? Basically the Meadham Kirchhoff menswear show for SS13 has had the greatest impact on me in the whole time I have been attending menswear shows and I was keen to hear something in person from (at least one of) the minds that created it. Something about the subversiveness of that presentation: the experience was … Read More »
To say the Casely-Hayford runway show was anticipated would be an understatement. Not since Agi & Sam’s transitional MAN show has The Old Sorting Office venue felt like such a stadium: a home crowd eager to be entertained by beloved sons (and fathers). And we were not to be disappointed. When I spoke to Charlie back in November there was understandable apprehension about their runway debut but last week the execution was perfect. All the trademark Casely-Hayford qualities were there: elegant tailoring, an inherent understanding of current street demeanor, sporty details, confident colour and above all, a sense of London menswear’s past and present glories coming together under a single flag. When asked about the scene and designers who might appeal to those who don’t live … Read More »
Next up in my previews with London designers presenting next week is Baartmans and Siegel. Amber and Wouter kindly took some time out from polishing what is always one of the capital’s most desirable collections to speak to me about their inspiration and some of the unique flavours we can expect this season.
SL: What was your inspiration for Baartmans and Siegel AW14?
B&S: This season we are looking at the feeling of “stealth” and its masculine-evoking energy. Ice, bleak climates and layered silhouettes.The blurred dark depths of internal male emotion – all those blurred shadows and dark patches of your mind that generate the urge for tactile, insular comfor. A man seeking out sensory nourishment.
Wishing to continue our exploration and signature homage to the broad spectrum of navy and inky tones that belong to menswear, we have included many of … Read More »
London Collections: Men is back on Monday, making a rudely early start to the fashion year. Which means that while most of the the nation was sleeping off a holiday hangover, designers have been back at work for some time already, perfecting their menswear collections with barely a Chocolate Orange to compensate their pain.
SL: What was your inspiration for Lou Dalton AW14?
LD:A raw young farm hand, innocent and bleak, working the land.
SL: Describe the vibe of the collection in five choice words. … Read More »
Lou Dalton opened London Collections: Men again this season, this time with a new, less-fitted spin on her tailored sportswear aesthetic. Inspired by the rootless life of a young nomad, the collection is filled with intriguing details from this story, part RAF aviation field, part artist studio.
1.The music was, once again, brilliant. The Smiths How Soon is Now? and the original 12” version of Bauhaus’s Bela Lugosi’s Dead in particular, with its eerie, twitchy rhythms, established a darker, more somber mood for Lou’s show this season. Jim Stanton of Horsemeat Disco crafted the soundtrack, with his usual flair for pressing just the right emotional buttons.
2.She redefined the shorts suit. I often find the combination of a blazer and shorts can look prissy, but something about the ‘pyjama jacket’ overshirt … Read More »