Tag: London Collections:Men


Up close with Matthew Miller’s AW14 collection

Posted on 28th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review. No Comments

Matthew Miller’s collection was a big highlight of London Collections: Men for me a couple of months back, and as the private orders/sales/re-see season came around I was very keen to see it up close. In particular, the intriguing textured material produced with Danish fabric experts Kvadrat demanded to be touched. So last week I headed over to a studio in Soho to see the collection up close and grab a feel of that fancy fabric. And I was not disappointed: at close range it delights your sense of touch, like the kind of very expensive upholstery you might stroke in an uber chic hotel or furniture showroom. On the body meanwhile, it feels surprisingly light; the bulk of the fabric making the constructed form stand away from … Read More »


London Collections Men AW14: in review

Posted on 11th January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

London Collections: Men ended on Wednesday, concluding the busiest schedule yet. Here are my favourite themes that emerged during the week.

Forest green
While black is most definitely back, forest green and charcoal kept the mood sombre but provided slightly gentler, more natural alternatives at the shows this week. Matthew Miller showed deepest forest green to its best advantage on Tuesday but the muted colour was also seen at Oliver Spencer, Common, and YMC.

Bold lines
Strong, graphical lines – often scaled up to cover the width of garments – filled runways with moving modernist canvases. Seen at E.Tautz and Casely-Hayford but also present at Nicomede Talavera (a designer showing for the first time at talent incubator Fashion East‘s presentations) … Read More »


In review: the colours of London Collections, Men

Posted on 16th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

Next up in my visual scrapbook from the recent London Collections for men the theme is colour. Once again my intention isn’t to draw attention to trends necessarily, but simply to take a slice of the visual experience of the shows as being about colour. From ‘warm your hands’ orange to soft pastels, bottomless black vinyl and everything in-between, here are some of my favourite colour moments from AW13.

Details at foot of page.

Images: 1 and 2: Agi & Sam, 3: Topman Design, 4: Jonathan Saunders, 5: Xander Zhou, 6: Meadham Kirchhoff, 7: J.W. Anderson, 8: Sibling, 9: Lou Dalton.


LC:M in review: Installations and Performance at the London Menswear Shows

Posted on 15th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

In the midst of reviewing the LC:M shows, especially going through the thousands of photos on my hard drive, certain themes start to emerge. Some trends, yes, but also ways of thinking about the visual experience of being there. So, alongside analysis of shows I particularly enjoyed, I’ve decided to share with you a series of primarily visual scrapbooks from the latest Collections in London.

My first theme is Installations and Performance. Since London’s Menswear Day evolved into a fully fledged Week one thing has remained clear: London really shines in terms of how men’s fashion is presented at installations and in more performance-driven shows. Most people are familiar with the idea of a runway show and backstage footage is now a staple in the media. It also doesn’t take much imagination to envisage what happens at a fashion trade show: … Read More »

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