Tag: London Fashion Week


Lookbook review: Peter Jensen SS14 menswear, Q&A

Posted on 5th September, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear. No Comments

Peter Jensen‘s collection for next Spring/Summer is inspired by fallen Hollywood star and socialite Paulette Goddard and her milieu, including one Andy Warhol. The women’s resort collection was photographed alongside the SS14 menswear, including some stunning images of a young Goddard-like socialite and her friend Mr Warhol, admirably played here by young models. The menswear is made up of simple separates bridging the gap between downtown daywear and clothes for that upscale loft party later. The colour palette spans Pop Art brights and strong monochromes (reminiscent of Andy’s screenprints).

“I like the idea of this chic old lady sitting smoking at Studio 54, dressed in Pop Art colours, telling everybody how rich she is and that she used to be a famous movie star.” 

Intrigued by those lookbook images I asked Peter … Read More »


Five things you should know about Lou Dalton’s SS14 show at LC:M

Posted on 21st June, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 1 Comment

Lou Dalton opened London Collections: Men again this season, this time with a new, less-fitted spin on her tailored sportswear aesthetic. Inspired by the rootless life of a young nomad, the collection is filled with intriguing details from this story, part RAF aviation field, part artist studio.

1.The music was, once again, brilliant. The Smiths How Soon is Now? and the original 12” version of Bauhaus’s Bela Lugosi’s Dead in particular, with its eerie, twitchy rhythms, established a darker, more somber mood for Lou’s show this season. Jim Stanton of Horsemeat Disco crafted the soundtrack, with his usual flair for pressing just the right emotional buttons.

2.She redefined the shorts suit. I often find the combination of a blazer and shorts can look prissy, but something about the ‘pyjama jacket’ overshirt … Read More »


Agi & Sam’s collection for Topman: presenting “The Owls”

Posted on 11th May, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, menswear, On the Radar. No Comments

Designers Agi & Sam whose collections have generated huge excitement during the last two London menswear weeks, are about to release a 20 piece collection for Topman.  The collection takes the idea of a kit for an imaginary football team: “The Owls” as a starting point, but goes beyond sportswear to includes shirting and tailoring in a mix of strong, blocked colours and the designers’ signature all over digital prints. Whilst I personally, may be entirely immune to the charms of football, I am very excited about design talent like Agi & Sam and what they say about London’s buoyant menswear scene.

I like to think that there are many out there who’ve now picked up on the buzz about the … Read More »


A whole month of menswear: my AW13 wish list

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear, Wishlist. No Comments

In less than a Manhattan minute, the menswear shows will be happening in New York, bringing a month of men’s fashion to a close. And what a month it’s been! Even if you didn’t get to attend the shows in person, in 2013 you could sit ‘front row’ in the comfort of your own living room with the major presentations (Prada, Louis Vuitton etc) being streamed live, and unprecedented coverage in the press and digital media. For designers, now is when the real work starts: selling their cherished designs to the buyers that matter and getting the right press.

A good moment then, to pause and sift through it all. And with personal orders events cropping up as designers return to London, it’s time to make some decisions.


Martine Rose, AW13: look back in detail

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

In fashion terms, London Collections Men AW13 is already history. Perception of what we saw here in early January has shifted and re-positioned itself around the wider context of menswear globally, now that Milan, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen and (imminently) New York have had their say. But the real work for designers has only just started in terms of sales and production, and there’s still the big question (for those not involved in stocking a boutique or planning editorial shoots for later in the year at least) of what to wear NOW, with a seasonal climate shift approaching.

It’s also a great time to pick over images from the shows for missed or forgotten moments. By now, the photos themselves have significance as a record of an ‘event’. As well as the clothes themselves: who was there? were they looking bored/scared/intrigued? The … Read More »


Meadham Kirchhoff men’s AW13: bin bags and Byronic dandies

Posted on 20th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. 1 Comment

“It’s finished,” said the bouncer on the door at Meadham Kirchhoff’s AW13 menswear presentation, “You missed it by 30 seconds.” “Can I go and look at the debris?”, I replied, having noticed the stacks of bin bags making up the set, hinting at something quite apocalyptic inside. Flashing an obviously rare smile, he stepped back to let me in.

I was fortunate: the models were still standing in place to facilitate a last-minute photo shoot, the designers themselves passing me on their way out. Meadham Kirchhoff’s presentation last season was my favourite experience at the first London Collections: Men, hence my keenness not to miss the follow up. That mad squat filled with the scent of over-blown blooms, boys with pink hair and visibly alarmed fashion editors keeping … Read More »


E.Tautz, AW13: revisioning the fabric of Scotland

Posted on 16th January, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men. No Comments

Patrick Grant’s little talks at the start of each E.Tautz collection are one of the givens of the menswear season in London, bringing a touch of intimacy and old-school charm to the experience of attending a fashion show. Whilst the echoing blank canvas of The Sorting Office space made such a verbal introduction impossible this time, the austerity of the space meant that the AW13 collection was left to create its own sense of drama and occasion. The pacing was unique in the Collections, no straight-out-of-Hackney-Wick striding here, instead there was time for the models (and us) to breathe between looks. A stirring soundtrack – Ultravox’s Vienna was particularly poignant – added to the sense of spaciousness.


LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Baartmans and Siegel

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

My final anticipatory post for LC:M is a departure from the Q&A and studio visits I’ve been working on since early December. It’s not that I didn’t visit the lovely Amber Siegel and Wouter Baartmans in their Hackney studio, but I was so overexcited about being given the opportunity to actually try on the collection that a Q&A format really wouldn’t do justice to that sensual experience now. So this is a post in two halves, first up here’s a little insight into their inspirations for AW13. A post with detailed pics of my favourite pieces from the studio visit is still to come, once the collection is no longer under wraps.

And of course I’ll be poring over the presentation pics and sharing that experience with you after Wednesday.

For now, it’s all … Read More »


LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Martine Rose

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

With LC:M almost upon us, it’s time for my final posts with some of London’s brightest and most anticipated menswear talent. Next up is Martine Rose, who can always be relied upon to bring a cerebral approach, very much balanced by a grittier awareness of street culture.  This season we’ve been advised to get to our seats for Martine’s presentation in good time as the presentation will be “a performance.” The intriguing playing card invite suggests both regal finery and roguish gambling knaves.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Here’s what Martine had to say when we caught up:

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?

MR: Sovereignty, status, ghetto kings. It started after I came back from Jamaica in the summer, I was so inspired by the rasta community there, even in … Read More »


LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Patrick Grant of E.Tautz

Posted on 27th December, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

For many of London’s menswear designers, Christmas 2012 will be remembered more for a lot of hard work than traditional festive over-indulgence. In a festive tribute to their renewed efforts today, I’m picking up where I left off as well, with my series of tasters for LC:M, AW13.

Today’s post features a brief chat with Patrick Grant, of E.Tautz, always one of the most anticipated London menswear shows.

Photo of Patrick Grant by Jonathan Daniel Pryce from his recommended 100 Days 100 Beards project and book.

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?

PG: Crofters cottages, not hanging out your washing on a Sunday, bad sixties wallpaper, rusty old cars.

SL: Last time we met, you were saying that the … Read More »

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