Tag: London menswear


Matthew Miller AW14: 5 things I loved about The Politics of Me

Posted on 11th January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

In terms of sheer desirability, Matthew Miller‘s show on Tuesday was a standout of LC:M this season for me. Minimal shapes, great fabrications and head to toe somber colours underpinned by anarchic intentions made the collection irresistable. Added to that, the visceral excitement of hearing James Murphy’s remix of David Bowie’s Love is Lost, with it’s halting hand claps intro booming out over the sound system at the venue sent chills that were definitely multiplying as the androgynous, rebellious looks strode out.

Taking the notion of personal politics to heart, here are 5 things I particularly loved about this collection.

1. The gorgeous, textured fabrics inviting the touch as well as the eye, emphasised the clean shapes of the clothing against the body.
2. The somber yet natural note of forest green, perfected in the biker … Read More »


Menswear Sample Sales: London and New York

Posted on 22nd October, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Acquiring some exclusive, one-off items by some of London’s finest youngest menswear designers is quite honestly something I’d usually keep hush-hush, especially when the names involved include staunch Sharpened Lead favourites James Long, Martine Rose, Lou Dalton, Sibling and Christopher Shannon. For reasons beyond my control, I’m not able to make it myself tomorrow or Thursday, so make me proud fashion followers: elbows at the ready.

Compounding my misery (and for the benefit of my New York readers), how about the option of attending Duckie Brown’s fourth ever sample sale in 12 years?


London Collections: Men, 2013. In the studio with Kit Neale

Posted on 10th December, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

As anticipation starts to build for the second London Collections: Men in January, I will be speaking to some of the talent that makes London menswear so exciting, bringing you designer and industry insider insights from behind the collections.

Here I speak to Kit Neale, about his Michael Clark fixation, and the showroom/studio space he’s just opened off Hackney Road.

SL: Tell me about the showroom space…

Kit Neale: We’ve been here about 3 weeks, we moved from Hackney, the depths of Hackney. Menswear is so different from womenswear, men want to have that rapport I think; womenswear like the ‘mystique’ of it all.  The decision was to set up a space, have a rapport and be able to set the tone for the brand, visually, and … Read More »


Re-inspired: looking back at the MAN SS13 show

Posted on 27th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. No Comments

Describing the experience of a (good) fashion show to non-fashion friends I often liken it to the moment the lights dim before an amazing music talent hits the stage, or the moment a great DJ takes over the decks, with the sensation of the raising of the hairs on the back of your neck and that simultaneous warm flush from chest to cheekbone. And of course designers are conscious of this simile and fashion shows are often half about the music.

Photos from fashion shows also tell some great stories, not always intentional. One of the outcomes of digital photography is the incredible detail in which the totality of a scene is captured, most of which you were probably unaware of at the time, in the struggle to photograph, Tweet, look and/or all of these at the same time, whilst trying … Read More »

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