Tag: Martin Margiela

The Belgians. An Unexpected Fashion Story – exhibition preview

Posted on 28th May, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Next week a new exhibition opens at the BOZAR centre for fine arts in Brussels, exploring the rise of Belgian fashion designers and their huge influence on the international fashion scene. Presumably the ‘unexpected’ in the exhibition title comes from the fact that at least in other regards, Belgium remains something of an enigma in Europe; Brussels bringing to mind bureaucratic officialdom rather than world class design, and, in the main, Belgian culture being less readily identifiable than that of some of its European neighbours. But as last year’s Dries Van Noten exhibition and the recent Dior film profiling Raf Simons indicates, there is much more to this little country than reputation might allow.

What is clear is that the impact of the Read More »

5 details to savour from the Milan/Paris AW15 menswear shows

Posted on 23rd January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

I have to confess that the Pitti/Milan leg of the current triathlon of menswear that is the European menswear shows was a bit of a blur. After seeing SO many shows and presentations at LC:M this season, the Italian shows whizzed by with the haste of a Vespa slash-and-grab chase. Now Paris is midway through, and it feels like a good moment to pause and reflect on what’s been shown since London and to focus in on some of the most beautiful details. If there’a anything that feels like a common thread here, its a desire for futurism, a desire to see what the future might look like even if that involves elements of the past reimagined.

1. The Nemeth fabric at Louis Vuitton
I am a huge fan of Kim Jones. From his Read More »

Springwatch: spring bombers in high tec fabrics

Posted on 26th April, by Colin Chapman in menswear, Wishlist. No Comments

Spring just might be in the air, and as ever, the first sunny days of the year encouraged sun deprived Londoners to shed layers and crack open the summer wardrobe early. Having invested in at least two pairs of summer shorts myself, I can understand that enthusiasm, but age and wisdom make me a little more hesitant. There’s a lot to be said for intra seasonal dressing, and Spring is a great time to hedge your bets, dipping toes into summer lightness and colour, without fully exposing those pasty limbs just yet.

It’s not that often I do a shopping post but right now I’m all about two items: the bomber jacket and finding a great pair of trainers for the summer. The bomber jacket has recently been redefined. One of those classic shapes you probably didn’t ever think about but … Read More »

H&M x Margiela: my edit of the collection

Posted on 10th November, by Colin Chapman in Collection review. No Comments

I have to confess to taking a while to get up to speed with this HM x Margiela collaboration. For the Marni one, I glided into the pre-launch event, having already selected the items of interest from the lookbook, like a Stepford Wife on rollerskates. This time around, it’s taken a while for any sense of anticipation about the collection to develop. Which is ironic, as the collection looks much more comprehensive. And I think that the ‘basics as luxury’ aesthetic of the House of Margiela will make a lot of sense once harnessed to the mass production power of H&M. In any case, I’m heading off on a rural retreat to celebrate my birthday this week, leaving the rest of you to fight it out on Regent Street.

Paint It White – Maison Martin Margiela 20, Somerset House, London

Posted on 14th June, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 2 Comments

My overriding thought on visiting the Margiela  20 Year retrospective show at Somerset House was of how familiar everything seemed, as though Margiela’s influence has been everywhere in the last 20 years, and of course it has. Fashion labels and retail environments from APC to Muji owe something to Monsieur Margiela.

From the vinyl tabi footprints leading the way into the exhibition (a tribute to Margiela’s signature cloven-hoofed  footwear) to the whitewashed furniture and domestic objects,  its clear that you are in the presence of a very singular design aesthetic. The absence of any images of Margiela himself (he is missing  even from the silhouette sculpture of the House of Margiela personnel) is, ironically, part of what makes his style so recognisable.

A catwalk video literally invites you in. From then on, the show is presented thematically, almost like a … Read More »

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