Tag: Martine Rose

New exhibition Mad About The Boy will open during London Collections: Men

Posted on 11th December, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

Mad About The Boy, curated by Showstudio alumnus Lou Stoppard, opens on 8 January exploring fashion’s obsession with youth, focuses on the way ideas of the teenage boy are constructed through definitive collections and fashion images. Inspired by designers’ fascination with youth culture, Mad About The Boy will examine the motifs and parallels within fashion’s treatment of youth.

The exhibition will collate the work of designers and image-makers including: Raf Simons, J W Anderson, Nick Knight, Larry Clark, Jason Evans, Kim Jones, Meadham Kirchhoff, Tyrone Lebon, Nasir Mazhar, Martine Rose, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Christopher Shannon, Judy Blame, Undercover, Patrick Robyn and more.
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MAN celebrates 10 years and announces the line up for SS16

Posted on 27th May, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

A decade ago Fashion East’s Lulu Kennedy and Topman came together to create London’s first support scheme for new menswear design. The list of talent nurtured by the initiative since then is nothing less than a roll call of some of the most discussed and critically acclaimed designers of this generation: from J.W. Anderson and Christopher Shannon to James Long, Martine Rose, Matthew Miller, Shaun Samson, Agi & Sam, Astrid Andersen and Craig Green.

What’s more, the judging panel (featuring leading journalists and editors including Tim Blanks and Ben Reardon, alongside Gordon Richardson of Topman and Lulu Kennedy herself) has lost none of it’s flair for identifying genuinely exciting new voices in fashion.

For SS16, the panel has selected just two designers: Liam Hodges, known for his lyrical celebration of working class heroes, from market stall traders to Morris Men and Rory … Read More »

London Collections Men, AW15: 6 key themes

Posted on 13th January, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

I’m not sure I really believe in trends any more, neither do I want to facilitate the easy dilution of designers’ ideas through tidy generalisations. But call it collective consciousness, cultural synergy or simply a reaction to what’s gone before and inevitably, themes emerge after four days of menswear shows. Here are some of those I noted while attending dozens of shows across the full four days of London Collections:Men.

The colour pink
It would be a natural assumption to make that Sibling’s all pink collection was a starting point for this one (especially if there’s any doubt in your mind that such a theme exists at all) but actually, I’d first noted the use of dusky pink in Lou Dalton’s collection, on short printed scarves, a pink sweater and the on the shaggy inner lining of a coat. Furthermore, Casely-Hayford injected … Read More »

What is the influence of house music on British fashion?

Posted on 5th April, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

As tributes to the late Frankie Knuckles, godfather of house, continue to pour in from across the music world following his death this week, its clear that the musical genre has had a huge influence, but what impact has this massively-popular music subculture had on British fashion, if at all?

The arrival of house and the later onset of the rave era in Britain has often been derided by the likes of sartorial commentators like Robert Elms as marking the end of club dandyism and triggering an era of pastel tracksuits.

In fact, many of the influential dandies and club kids from the Blitz club era embraced house because the music came from a newly-emerged urban, black gay subculture and therefore appealed to the free spirits and mavericks within the club scene here (as evidence, Boy George is still a house music … Read More »

Martine Rose, AW13: look back in detail

Posted on 1st February, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, Collection review, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

In fashion terms, London Collections Men AW13 is already history. Perception of what we saw here in early January has shifted and re-positioned itself around the wider context of menswear globally, now that Milan, Paris, Berlin, Copenhagen and (imminently) New York have had their say. But the real work for designers has only just started in terms of sales and production, and there’s still the big question (for those not involved in stocking a boutique or planning editorial shoots for later in the year at least) of what to wear NOW, with a seasonal climate shift approaching.

It’s also a great time to pick over images from the shows for missed or forgotten moments. By now, the photos themselves have significance as a record of an ‘event’. As well as the clothes themselves: who was there? were they looking bored/scared/intrigued? The … Read More »

LC:M in review: Installations and Performance at the London Menswear Shows

Posted on 15th January, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

In the midst of reviewing the LC:M shows, especially going through the thousands of photos on my hard drive, certain themes start to emerge. Some trends, yes, but also ways of thinking about the visual experience of being there. So, alongside analysis of shows I particularly enjoyed, I’ve decided to share with you a series of primarily visual scrapbooks from the latest Collections in London.

My first theme is Installations and Performance. Since London’s Menswear Day evolved into a fully fledged Week one thing has remained clear: London really shines in terms of how men’s fashion is presented at installations and in more performance-driven shows. Most people are familiar with the idea of a runway show and backstage footage is now a staple in the media. It also doesn’t take much imagination to envisage what happens at a fashion trade show: … Read More »

LC:M, AW13: in the wings with Martine Rose

Posted on 4th January, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, London Collections: Men, menswear. No Comments

With LC:M almost upon us, it’s time for my final posts with some of London’s brightest and most anticipated menswear talent. Next up is Martine Rose, who can always be relied upon to bring a cerebral approach, very much balanced by a grittier awareness of street culture.  This season we’ve been advised to get to our seats for Martine’s presentation in good time as the presentation will be “a performance.” The intriguing playing card invite suggests both regal finery and roguish gambling knaves.

















Here’s what Martine had to say when we caught up:

SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?

MR: Sovereignty, status, ghetto kings. It started after I came back from Jamaica in the summer, I was so inspired by the rasta community there, even in … Read More »

Martine Rose: defying the material

Posted on 16th June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. No Comments

It felt like the whole of London was put under the scrutinising eye of the fashion world yesterday, and no one more so than the recipients of London’s various fashion talent funding schemes, such as second-time New Gen Men winner, Martine Rose. Last time we spoke, Martine  hinted that her collection would continue some familiar themes whilst introducing some ‘surprises’. Presented to a packed house with models’ faces entirely obscured by embroidered masks, all focus was placed on the form and structure of the clothes themselves. Inspired by a specific Bernini sculpture that seemingly defies the ‘material in which it is made’, there was a definite sense that the clothes here were sculpted onto the body, especially the bleached denim; oversized but then refitted to the scale of the … Read More »

London’s finest interviewed: Sibling

Posted on 3rd June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men, Sibling. 2 Comments

Bringing us up to a rather appropriate number 3 in my series of interview-ettes with London’s fashion design talent, is dynamic knitwear design trio Sibling. Their collections have consistently been a highlight in my visits to menswear day over the last few seasons. Possessing a delicious sense of subversion, the knitwear designers are VERY London. Not only do they produce beautiful knitwear, but their work is presented with an impact worthy of a gallery. Recent installations have included dodgem cars, Paris Texas inspired prison visit booths, and accompanying films. With decades of experience between them, Sibling are literally knitted into London’s fashion culture right now.

1. SL: Congratulations on winning the New Gen Men catwalk sponsorship. What does this mean to you as a team? What difference will it make?

CM: Well today it means: no … Read More »

London’s finest interviewed: Martine Rose

Posted on 1st June, by Colin Chapman in London Collections: Men. 4 Comments

As part of my countdown to London Collections: Men I’ve been speaking to some of my favourite designers in London this week, capturing a quick snapshot of their thoughts leading up to the big event. Next in line is the amazing Martine Rose, fresh from the excitement of seeing Jake Shears rocking a head-to-toe Rose look on The Graham Norton show last week. Martine’s last collection brought a real sense of London rich street style heritage, especially through the revisioned MA1 flight jackets. To me that deep counter-cultural history is what makes fashion from our capital so unique. International visitors, new to the London shows, could find no better place to orient themselves than Martine’s work.

Four questions for Martine Rose

1. SL: Congratulations on winning the New Gen Men catwalk sponsorship. What does this … Read More »

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