Tag: Meadham Kirchhoff
Mad About The Boy, curated by Showstudio alumnus Lou Stoppard, opens on 8 January exploring fashion’s obsession with youth, focuses on the way ideas of the teenage boy are constructed through definitive collections and fashion images. Inspired by designers’ fascination with youth culture, Mad About The Boy will examine the motifs and parallels within fashion’s treatment of youth.
The exhibition will collate the work of designers and image-makers including: Raf Simons, J W Anderson, Nick Knight, Larry Clark, Jason Evans, Kim Jones, Meadham Kirchhoff, Tyrone Lebon, Nasir Mazhar, Martine Rose, Gosha Rubchinskiy, Christopher Shannon, Judy Blame, Undercover, Patrick Robyn and more.
… Read More »
In the best tradition of LC:M, the fourth and final day exemplified the diversity of London’s showcase of menswear talent, from the Paul Smith event held on Savile Row to the hedonistic, polysexual world of Charles Jeffrey at Fashion East’s takeover of the ICA.
The day started with the reliably high taste values of E.Tautz. The collection this time was partially concerned with the concept of leisure time and the emergence of specific clothing to enjoy one’s leisure time in post War Britain. Patrick’s inspirations can often be read as being quite sombre, but the results are always extremely elegant, and, increasingly, particularly for summer, casual. Graphic print T-shirts, wide-legged raw denims and neat shorts had the easy-going grace of last summer’s British seaside-influenced collection with a more varied, modernistic appeal.
After putting his … Read More »
A month of menswear kicks off tomorrow with London Collections: Men, now a four-day event. Back in the day (2011 to be precise, when it was still called Menswear Day), a handful of enthusiastic journos, buyers, bloggers and me squeezed into compact rooms at Somerset House to watch London’s menswear talent present their collections. The atmosphere crackled with expectation, alive with cherished dreams of recognition and just the very newness of it all, despite those cramped surroundings. These days its the schedule that’s packed, with headline talent such as Burberry on the agenda, and the full span of London’s menswear on display – from East London’s latest enfants terribles to big league brands and Savile Row tailoring houses.
Here are some of the shows I’m personally looking forward to.
Kit Neale is a great talent who I’ve supported, cheered on and … Read More »
During the packed schedule at three days of London Collections: Men, it’s easy for things to start to blur but certain experiences stay with you. And it’s not just about the clothes. The spectacle and theatre of catwalk and installations creates powerful moments when music, space, lighting and a load of beautiful-looking people are brought together for a few dazzling minutes. Here are some of the things I’m mulling over now the shows and presentations are over.
LC:M is memorable for more than what is presented on the catwalk. With hundreds of stylish buyers, journalists, editors and bloggers on show for three days, it’s a perfect opportunity to see what men in the industry are actually wearing. One note I picked up on was a certain relaxed, less buttoned-up approach to dressing (lets ignore the truckloads of pocket squares for now), … Read More »
“It’s finished,” said the bouncer on the door at Meadham Kirchhoff’s AW13 menswear presentation, “You missed it by 30 seconds.” “Can I go and look at the debris?”, I replied, having noticed the stacks of bin bags making up the set, hinting at something quite apocalyptic inside. Flashing an obviously rare smile, he stepped back to let me in.
I was fortunate: the models were still standing in place to facilitate a last-minute photo shoot, the designers themselves passing me on their way out. Meadham Kirchhoff’s presentation last season was my favourite experience at the first London Collections: Men, hence my keenness not to miss the follow up. That mad squat filled with the scent of over-blown blooms, boys with pink hair and visibly alarmed fashion editors keeping … Read More »
Next up in my visual scrapbook from the recent London Collections for men the theme is colour. Once again my intention isn’t to draw attention to trends necessarily, but simply to take a slice of the visual experience of the shows as being about colour. From ‘warm your hands’ orange to soft pastels, bottomless black vinyl and everything in-between, here are some of my favourite colour moments from AW13.
Details at foot of page.
Images: 1 and 2: Agi & Sam, 3: Topman Design, 4: Jonathan Saunders, 5: Xander Zhou, 6: Meadham Kirchhoff, 7: J.W. Anderson, 8: Sibling, 9: Lou Dalton.
In the midst of reviewing the LC:M shows, especially going through the thousands of photos on my hard drive, certain themes start to emerge. Some trends, yes, but also ways of thinking about the visual experience of being there. So, alongside analysis of shows I particularly enjoyed, I’ve decided to share with you a series of primarily visual scrapbooks from the latest Collections in London.
My first theme is Installations and Performance. Since London’s Menswear Day evolved into a fully fledged Week one thing has remained clear: London really shines in terms of how men’s fashion is presented at installations and in more performance-driven shows. Most people are familiar with the idea of a runway show and backstage footage is now a staple in the media. It also doesn’t take much imagination to envisage what happens at a fashion trade show: … Read More »
The second London Collections: Men finished on Wednesday, with a Peter Werth x Nutter’s show where the models broke out into Northern Soul dance moves. It seemed a fitting ending to three days of fashion shows, installations, presentations and events that not only seemed more confident, cumulatively, but also possessed a collective sense of fun. Whether it was a ruddy-cheeked Patrick Grant walking the Agi&Sam runway with accompanying basset hound, Sibling’s ‘knit monsters’ in giant mittens, boys in flying saucers at Fashion East or the thigh-flashing peplum-shorts for men at JW Anderson, London’s fashion statement to the world seemed to be: don’t take everything so seriously. But alongside the British sense of humour, there was the equally typical love of provocation running through many shows, either as direct statements at Matthew Miller and YMC, or in the more general sense of … Read More »
Perhaps ironically, as dreams of yet another English summer dissolved into mist and drizzle, London Collections: men last weekend delivered up an endless stream of wearable summer clothing for SS13, all fit for a proper heatwave. Few collections were as beautiful as that by Baartmans and Siegel, shown on Sunday. Within minutes of arriving at the presentation in fact, I’d heard the word ‘beautiful’ mentioned several times, uttered either as an overall reaction to the clothes on show, or used in a question to me, in expectation of my agreement. But this was no gushy, fashion darling reaction, but a genuine response to one of the most cohesive and desirable collections of the whole weekend.
The relaxed sporty shapes (some grey marl sweatpants appeared, a few drawstring waistbands) were as prevalent here as in other shows across town, and transparency, delicacy … Read More »
Fashion, at least partly, is meant to be fun. Meadham Kirchhoff‘s brilliant show-cum-performance-art-installation today was a great reminder of that. It was one of the main things I wanted to attend during this London Collections: Men weekend and as an event it really didn’t disappoint. A somewhat show-weary and tetchy crowd were eventually filtered through the entrance to 3 Carlton Gardens and up the sweeping staircase to be confronted by a heavy, floral fragrance (later revealed to be Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon’s) wafting across two rooms. Here, louche, lithe boys lounged around on mattresses: some masked, others with handwritten facial ‘tattoos’, all wearing the heady mix of colour, fabrics and texture that Meadham Kirchhoff are renowned for. In the presence of a large crowd complete with the likes of … Read More »