Tag: New York
After years of attending New York Fashion Week as one of a tiny cohort of European-based press, picking my way through the slim pickings of menswear shows in the main schedule, I’m here in the city to celebrate the city’s first ever menswear week; four days of men’s fashion and nothing else. The paint on the official hoarding was literally still wet when I turned up to collect my press pass this morning, but a buzzing showcase of emerging menswear labels at Industria studios helped to get things off to a more promising start.
An early favourite is the Boyswear collection by Jackson McKeehan. Provocatively titled The Manson Family Singers, McKeehan’s debut collection took an anarchic and thoroughly unexpected mix of references: everyone’s favourite late 60’s homicidal cult, and The Sound of Music (demonstrated with droll nods … Read More »
Better known for putting what’s on the shop rails at high-end boutiques the world over within reach of your laptop via a single, digital storefront, FarFetch has just released a book on food culture: FarFetch Curates: Food with luxury book publisher Prosper and Martine Assouline.
Drawing on the local expertise of the digital fashion brand’s inevitably widespread network, the book focuses on the finest food and drink experiences to be had around the world. With a foreword by Tim Blanks, the links between food and fashion are strongly established from the outset. As Blanks himself notes, curation is one of the defining words and activities of our times, social media making us all ‘curators’, with fashion and food being familiar tag mates on Instagram brunch shares the world over.
Hopefully you’ll be relieved to hear it’s not all about … Read More »
As I share my highlights from the week, it’s time to wave goodbye to New York, though this time it’s more of a ‘see you later’ as we’ll be right back here again in July for the inaugural menswear week.
I’ve already reviewed Duckie Brown in detail, but here are some details from the other collections I particularly enjoyed this trip. There are some familiar names here, as certain New York talents continue to plough as steady furrow through the dross of mainstream menswear, but as ever, I was interested to discover the newer names around town. With the likes of Astrid Andersen and Bobby Abley showing in the city, it’s also interesting to see if some of the fierce lustre of the street-ier aspects of LC:M will rub off over here.
Bettering … Read More »
New York fashion week is underway, and as ever, the menswear shows will play their part, lightly peppered across the schedule, and often held at smaller, more intimate locations than the media carnival around the major league womenswear shows at the Lincoln Centre. During fashion week, the island of Manhattan is invaded by an army of fashionable women (and some men) from across the U.S., the former generally rivaling the tall buildings in their heels, all seemingly in a constant rush and making as much noise about it as possible. The menswear shows tend to have a more sedate feel, as a select and recognisable crew gathers in warehouse spaces and studios around Chelsea and the Meatpacking District to demonstrate their allegiance to the idea of men’s fashion in New York.
But changes are afoot, with the recent announcement … Read More »
Sneak peaks of what’s to come at New York Fashion Week have started to surface, and, as ever with New York menswear, nothing bubbles more provocatively than a Duckie Brown collection. Emerging yesterday, this video, replete with the couple’s dry humour, announced that the Duckies will also be showing womenswear this season. As the video says, having produced a label for 12 years showing menswear based on womenswear, the Duckie’s will finally be showing womenswear for women this season. While I will (slightly) miss the audacity of their menswear flying solo in the face of American conservatism, at least with a women’s line on board their mastery of fashion design and craft may be more fully appreciated. And I’m sure the menswear will still have the kick of a potent martini.
Acquiring some exclusive, one-off items by some of London’s finest youngest menswear designers is quite honestly something I’d usually keep hush-hush, especially when the names involved include staunch Sharpened Lead favourites James Long, Martine Rose, Lou Dalton, Sibling and Christopher Shannon. For reasons beyond my control, I’m not able to make it myself tomorrow or Thursday, so make me proud fashion followers: elbows at the ready.
Compounding my misery (and for the benefit of my New York readers), how about the option of attending Duckie Brown’s fourth ever sample sale in 12 years?
My round up from The Guardian earlier this week, in case you missed it there or aren’t a Guardian visitor.
New York fashion week concludes soon and the more interesting menswear shows this week demonstrated that beneath the city’s reputation for understatement beats a less conventional heart
Duckie Brown are New York’s premier menswear experimentalists, and on Friday among the most surprising pieces in their collection were skirts and aprons inspired by sportswear and uniforms, shown alongside classic shapes such as bomber jackets and shorts. The idea of men in skirts still provokes strong reactions, which is why bolder menswear designers continue to return to it.
This collection was grounded in solid colours reminiscent of uniforms – navy, grey and khaki – and paired up with the solid heft of the … Read More »
From time to time I like to take a look at some of the more interesting menswear campaigns out there, here are a couple that have caught my eye recently.
First up, pictures have emerged of US actor Michael Pitt in Rag & Bone‘s menswear campaign for AW13. In these stills taken from the upcoming video (set for September release) Pitt is seen driving around downtown Manhattan wearing a selection of Rag & Bone’s Autumn/Winter outerwear including a beautiful shearling collar coat, and (as even The Daily Mail were excited to report) trashing his own guitar in the middle of a New York City street. He’s one of the few people of his stature who could carry off such a stunt with any sense of authenticity (the man is friends with Patti Smith after … Read More »
The Duckies said they were in a ‘tougher, laddish mood’ this season and the bleached denim looks which opened their Duckie Pleasures show in New York on Thursday, confirmed this. Bleached workwear jackets paired with matching jeans had a English post-punk sensibility, and model faces, familiar from London, added an authentic sense of toughness. The workwear jackets led to a more familiar jean jacket in dark denim. In some looks, models wore leather belt loops, draped over both shoulders, as if in preparation for some arcane form of saddlery.
It’s a sign … Read More »
Inspiration can come from the smallest detail. So it is with a grainy, B&W photo of the artist Gordon Matta-Clark at the current Barbican exhibition, Pioneers of the Downtown Scene, New York 1970s. Matta-Clark made his art from buildings, sometimes from the gaps between them, or by literally slicing them in two. Shot outside Food, the restaurant he co-ran with fellow artists at the heart of New York’s then dangerous, crumbling SoHo in the late 70s, the photo shows Matta-Clark in iconic SoHo artist mode: in a simple T-shirt, VANS and jeans. No doubt he would hate to be considered an icon of something as vacuous as ‘fashion’ but style transcends that. To me he exudes downtown cool. It is impossible to dress like this today, with such a … Read More »