Tag: New York Fashion Week


Duckie Brown, AW15: Tomorrow

Posted on 13th February, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 2 Comments

The recent announcement that New York will have a separate menswear week in July, means that the men’s collections showing here this week will be under additional scrutiny. With such considerations in mind, it is reassuring to see Duckie Brown once again delivering a collection which reveals their mastery of cut, colour and form; demonstrating that its business as usual for the Duckies.

There’s often a body part, a focal point or implied movement being celebrated in a Duckie Brown collection, and this time it would appear to be the breastbone, revealed under sheer fabrics, in shirts worn pulled open to reveal the chest or framed by the “V” of a kimono-style wrapped neckline. There is something almost swashbuckling about this shape, the chest revealed under undulating layers of silky … Read More »


Tim Coppens – NYFW #SS15

Posted on 18th September, by Colin Chapman in menswear. 1 Comment

I know it’s Milan fashion week now but I wanted to share with you a quick chat I had with Tim Coppens after his show back at New York fashion week that didn’t make it into my Guardian piece. Coppens’ show was packed, with a palpable excitement front of house and a strong international contingent attending which gave a definite sense that he’s about to become big. There was already much anticipation of the fact Tim would be showing some womenswear alongside the menswear. In the end the collection featured sports mesh, blocked colour and a special blurred neon print called Jungle Sunrise. The focus was on construction, form and function for both sexes but there was also a sleek polish to the pieces that went beyond sportswear and, incidentally there was … Read More »


New York Fashion Week SS15: my round-up

Posted on 8th September, by Colin Chapman in menswear, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

New York fashion week is underway and amidst all the big-guns productions the final menswear shows of the fashion year (and what those attending them are wearing) confirm the trends for next summer.

New York fashion week is largely dominated by womenswear but there are menswear shows in the schedule too and New York retains a small but well formed core of talented young designers showing progressive men’s fashion. In addition, trends have had soak time and as the last big showcase of menswear in the annual calendar what editors and buyers are wearing to the shows this week is a good indication of what everyone else will want to be wearing next spring/summer (it’s also most likely what will be the shops).

1. New York menswear designers are doing really well at designing womenswear too. CFDA menswear designers of the year … Read More »


N.Hoolywood SS15 – New York Fashion Week

Posted on 7th September, by Colin Chapman in menswear, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

It’s impossible to talk about the N.Hoolywood show on Friday here in New York without mentioning the incredible location: the show took place on a rooftop in the Garment District opposite the iconic New Yorker building and the Empire State building and with the kind of dramatic sky dreamt of by Hollywood art directors. This setting impressed even the resident fashion crowd and created a sense of awe from the outset. Recent N.Hoolywood collections have focused on specific time periods and iconography in American history; the Western, the prohibition era, but this time designer Daisuke Obana took inspiration from his native Japan, and the unique natural environment there, specifically exotic insect life. Loud birdsong piped through the speakers set the tone for this nature-inspired theme, emphasising that we were in fact open to the elements even in the midst of ultra urban … Read More »


Duckie Brown, AW14: The Duckie Has Two Faces

Posted on 9th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Duckie Brown, New York Fashion Week. No Comments

My support of Duckie Brown is no secret, their studio was among the first I visited for Sharpened Lead and I love the fact that their vision is so oppositional to most of what can be seen in New York in terms of men’s fashion. As I reported earier this week, the Duckies presented womenswear alongside the menswear for AW14 which feels like a natural progression of the constant gender boundary-pushing within their work. I can see that a Duckie Brown women’s line could be a big hit, arguably there are more fashionable women in New York who know of and celebrate the duo as … Read More »


New York Fashion Week SS14: Duckie Brown review

Posted on 6th September, by Colin Chapman in New York, New York Fashion Week. 4 Comments

Boys keep swinging: Duckie Brown’s SS14 collection doesn’t skirt around the issue of what men can wear.

Duckie Brown today played up to their reputation for being New York’s premier experimentalists in the form of menswear. And playing is the right word to use, not in the sense of being pointlessly frivolous but in the idea of a childlike refusal to accept rules as rules and to continuously test boundaries, especially when it comes to what can be worn and by whom. In the opening moments, a spoken word soundtrack, voiced by children, expressed the arbitrariness of male and female dress codes and their impact on aspirations and identities, a sentiment later underlined by the lyrics of some driving adult-vocalled hip hop.

Backstage before the show, Read More »


NYFW, AW13 Duckie Brown: turning ‘outerwear’ inside out

Posted on 14th February, by Colin Chapman in Catwalk review, menswear. No Comments

A week ago today Duckie Brown presented their AW13 collection in New York. Whilst posters around the city suggested a potential print-fest, perhaps a wintry take on the ‘bruised roses‘ of SS12, what emerged was a brilliantly executed reversal of expectation with a a play on the whole concept of ‘outerwear’ and layering.

Whilst Daniel had hinted that the collection would be “tough again – poofy lad”, Steven‘s summing up: “changing layering around and using heavy wool for linings and light fabric for the outer shell…no shirts but underneath coats instead of shirts … Read More »


NYFW AW13: in the wings with Steven Cox of Duckie Brown

Posted on 12th February, by Colin Chapman in Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

In New York later this afternoon, Duckie Brown will present their second collection for Perry Ellis. Whilst PE might be little known to Brits (aside from vaguely remembered billboard ads from that New York trip), as I’ve informed before, the brand is a mainstay at the more MOR department stores in the States. And last season, the Duckies blew the dust off Perry Ellis with a spirited re-visioning of the brand’s familiar khaki and signature polka dots.

Having already posted Daniel Silver‘s thoughts on the eve of their signature line’s show last Thursday, here are partner Steven’s responses in … Read More »


NYFW AW13: in the wings with Duckie Brown

Posted on 7th February, by Colin Chapman in Collection review, Designer profiles, menswear, Studio Visit. No Comments

Later today, Duckie Brown will present their AW13 Collection. Always a highlight of New York Fashion Week for me, I love how their uncompromising vision of menswear confronts the more ‘buttoned up’ notions of masculinity being presented elsewhere in the City. With not one but two collections to prepare (their menswear line for Perry Ellis will be shown next week), not to mention their ongoing collaboration with shoemakers Florsheim, you could say the Duckies are busy. Here are some reminders of recent collections, interspersed with some questions I managed to fire at the guys in the last week. And to heighten the suspense, those intriguing posters from around town and the ‘Duckyl’ flyer for today’s show.


SL:
Your last Duckie collection (SS13) was described as being quite “tough” with lots of … Read More »


NYFW, SS13: General Idea’s psychedelic lumberjacks

Posted on 19th September, by Colin Chapman in New York Fashion Week. No Comments

I have to admit to my heart sinking slightly when reading the title of General Idea’s show at Eyebeam studio in New York during NYFW: The Last Lumberjack. But I should have trusted that Korean designer Bumsuk Choi’s creative vision would be far more interesting than just another encounter with American heritagewear. From the first look, involving a revitalised camo fabric shot through with neon green, this was a collection that tantalised the eye with colour.

And then I spotted the shoes… chunky, outdoorsy hiking boots and tough looking trainer hybrids, again with neon highlights. Not dissimilar to the neon colours used by Prada in the more outré (and little photographed) end of their recent golfing-inspired footwear line, the bright pinks, oranges and neon yellow make these sturdy looking shoes instantly modern, urban and relevant. Styling throughout focused on the combination … Read More »

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