Tag: New York Menswear

A look back at Public School, the new creative directors of DKNY

Posted on 18th May, by Colin Chapman in menswear. No Comments

Visiting New York for fashion week a few years ago, Public School were one of the brands I came across, and enthused about to a then largely disinterested audience in the UK, still hyped up on the success of London C0llections: Men at drawing the fashion world’s attention to menswear and the emergence of  homegrown talent in particular. I continued to cover the brand’s presentations for The Guardian, which usually took place at Milk Studios where other New York menswear hopefuls such as Rochambeau, staged concurrent presentations on the Sunday night of fashion week, providing focus in a city where menswear is illiberally sprinkled across the week’s schedule. From the first, designers Maxwell Osborne and Dao-Yi Chow stuck to a clear formula; a refined version of New York’s no-fuss streetwear, in the form of MA1s, biker jackets and mesh … Read More »

Siki Im SS13: Ghost Ranch

Posted on 13th September, by Colin Chapman in New York Fashion Week. 1 Comment

As a former architect, it is perhaps not surprising that Siki Im was at pains last week to point out that his SS13 collection Ghost Ranch, named after the isolated desert sanctuary of artist Georgia O’Keefe, was inspired by Keefe’s home and life there rather than by her output as an artist. Im is known for bringing the conceptual to New York menswear, so the pedantic emphasis on the exact source of his inspiration is also fitting. What this meant in terms of the collection, is that alongside his trademark black and white pieces, colours such as slate and bone were used, suggestive of the arid landscape of the burnt American plains.

The fabrics, from crisp cotton shirting through loose knits, leather and wool, reflected the harshness and purity of the desert landscape. The napes of models’s necks … Read More »

Duckie Brown SS13: Blue Collars,Tough Pleasures

Posted on 8th September, by Colin Chapman in New York Fashion Week. No Comments

The Duckies said they were in a ‘tougher, laddish mood’ this season and the bleached denim looks which opened their Duckie Pleasures show in New York on Thursday, confirmed this. Bleached workwear jackets paired with matching jeans had a English post-punk sensibility, and model faces, familiar from London, added an authentic sense of toughness. The workwear jackets led to a more familiar jean jacket in dark denim. In some looks, models wore leather belt loops, draped over both shoulders, as if in preparation for some arcane form of saddlery.

Bleached denim workwear jackets and utilitarian blazers opened the show. Unslung overall straps were a feature throughout.

Leading to dark denim: shoulder straps and high-contrast cream Florsheim Oxfords in full effect.

I said, tough, right? Denim Harrington and a (literal) blue collar stance.

It’s a sign … Read More »

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