Tag: Patrick Grant
In the best tradition of LC:M, the fourth and final day exemplified the diversity of London’s showcase of menswear talent, from the Paul Smith event held on Savile Row to the hedonistic, polysexual world of Charles Jeffrey at Fashion East’s takeover of the ICA.
The day started with the reliably high taste values of E.Tautz. The collection this time was partially concerned with the concept of leisure time and the emergence of specific clothing to enjoy one’s leisure time in post War Britain. Patrick’s inspirations can often be read as being quite sombre, but the results are always extremely elegant, and, increasingly, particularly for summer, casual. Graphic print T-shirts, wide-legged raw denims and neat shorts had the easy-going grace of last summer’s British seaside-influenced collection with a more varied, modernistic appeal.
After putting his … Read More »
So, the fourth and longest ever London Collections: Men just ended and the fashion set already have their eyes trained on Florence, Milan and Paris (those that aren’t scouring the Internet for pics and opinions of Galliano’s return at Maison Margiela, that is). It’s a sad fact that after months of hard work on the part of designers, a collection either makes the headlines or it doesn’t, and even then, interest is fleeting as there is always another show, another city, another designer to focus on, especially in these super-fast days of Instagram gratification. I’m therefore cautious to be seen to be drawing too much of a definite line under anything, as there are still fuller stories to be told, images to be savoured and opinions to be reassessed and considered. But, from a very personal perspective here are my … Read More »
Today sees the launch of Patrick Grant’s book, Original Man – The Tautz Compendium of Less Ordinary Gentlemen. Perhaps the most articulate designer of his generation, what I’ve always appreciated about Patrick is his ability to tell a great story, from the beautifully compiled notes given out at E.Tautz shows to his recent TV work, so I’m guessing that his first book will be full of charm, well-chosen epigrams and the occasional LOL (the list of gentlemen featured includes Olly Reed and Ozzy Osbourne after all).
Published with the commendable intention of “inspiring readers to lead a less ordinary life” the book showcases more than 80 original men (including some personal heroes of mine like Yves Saint Laurent and Quentin Crisp), selected not for their sartorial prominence (there are … Read More »
I originally wrote this piece about London’s most exciting knitwear designers back in the summer, when thoughts of wooly jumpers and indeed winter itself felt like a distant prospect, stuffed away with the thermal undies, but here we now are in the first properly cold days of the season when a warm sweater makes perfect sense. This piece somehow got squeezed out of the publishing schedule it was intended for, but as some of London’s finest knitted garment designers gave me their time to divulge their thoughts on the art of the knit I’m sharing it with you here.
The humble sweater rarely gets media attention (unless it’s one of those pieces in the free papers celebrating ironic Christmas jumpers) but knitwear for men is becoming more creative and experimental. There will always be scope for a classic – a black … Read More »
There was always a sense of history and storytelling in E.Tautz, from the intimate days when Patrick talked us through the collection to more recent shows in the vast space of The Old Sorting Office. In that more intimate past the story was often in the fabrication itself and needed to be interpreted or, better still, touched for the specialness of the pieces to be really understood. Backstories of the home knitters, the mills, the history of a fabric like Ventile were an essential part of the E.Tautz DNA then but recent collections have had a more wide-screen appeal, both in the presentation on a big stage and the literal impact of the clothing. A commenter on my Guardian-published round-up last week … Read More »
It’s not often I let the pictures do the talking (in fact, I’d argue that menswear currently has way too much much image sharing and not enough good writing), but reviewing these backstage pics from the E.Tautz SS14 show a couple of weeks ago now, I’m struck by the way the images tell the story in their own right.
While focusing on the hair and make up by Toni & Guy and the Vidal Sassoon teams, the photos here also show the build up to the boys getting into their first outfits. I’ve been backstage at an E.Tautz show before and am always impressed by Patrick‘s calm … Read More »
Designers Agi & Sam whose collections have generated huge excitement during the last two London menswear weeks, are about to release a 20 piece collection for Topman. The collection takes the idea of a kit for an imaginary football team: “The Owls” as a starting point, but goes beyond sportswear to includes shirting and tailoring in a mix of strong, blocked colours and the designers’ signature all over digital prints. Whilst I personally, may be entirely immune to the charms of football, I am very excited about design talent like Agi & Sam and what they say about London’s buoyant menswear scene.
I like to think that there are many out there who’ve now picked up on the buzz about the … Read More »
Patrick Grant’s little talks at the start of each E.Tautz collection are one of the givens of the menswear season in London, bringing a touch of intimacy and old-school charm to the experience of attending a fashion show. Whilst the echoing blank canvas of The Sorting Office space made such a verbal introduction impossible this time, the austerity of the space meant that the AW13 collection was left to create its own sense of drama and occasion. The pacing was unique in the Collections, no straight-out-of-Hackney-Wick striding here, instead there was time for the models (and us) to breathe between looks. A stirring soundtrack – Ultravox’s Vienna was particularly poignant – added to the sense of spaciousness.
For many of London’s menswear designers, Christmas 2012 will be remembered more for a lot of hard work than traditional festive over-indulgence. In a festive tribute to their renewed efforts today, I’m picking up where I left off as well, with my series of tasters for LC:M, AW13.
Today’s post features a brief chat with Patrick Grant, of E.Tautz, always one of the most anticipated London menswear shows.
SL: Could you give me a few choice phrases to describe your inspirations for this collection?
PG: Crofters cottages, not hanging out your washing on a Sunday, bad sixties wallpaper, rusty old cars.
SL: Last time we met, you were saying that the … Read More »
Over the summer I became acquainted with a very personable young photographer and fellow blogger, Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce of Another Garcon. Jonathan’s project 100 Days, 100 Beards has subsequently taken off with such meteoric force that one can only assume that he has captured the beard zeitgeist at just the right moment.
As I type, I’m preparing myself to attend the launch party for Jonathan’s book. At this moment in time, it’s great to see that such blog projects can still evolve into meaningful, covetable books, given the potential for mediocrity out there. It’s also great that this is a specifically menswear blogging phenomenon, something to be celebrated amongst our select crew. As a long-term beard ‘fancier’ myself, this is a project I could well relate to, especially … Read More »