Tag: Patrick Grant
Over the summer I became acquainted with a very personable young photographer and fellow blogger, Mr Jonathan Daniel Pryce of Another Garcon. Jonathan’s project 100 Days, 100 Beards has subsequently taken off with such meteoric force that one can only assume that he has captured the beard zeitgeist at just the right moment.
As I type, I’m preparing myself to attend the launch party for Jonathan’s book. At this moment in time, it’s great to see that such blog projects can still evolve into meaningful, covetable books, given the potential for mediocrity out there. It’s also great that this is a specifically menswear blogging phenomenon, something to be celebrated amongst our select crew. As a long-term beard ‘fancier’ myself, this is a project I could well relate to, especially … Read More »
With less than a week to go now until the launch of London Collections: Men, it seems very fitting to be posting about the house of E.Tautz and it’s designer, Patrick Grant. Last season I witnessed Patrick backstage, remarkably calm whilst models took their final walks (hairclips still in place) and this sense of quiet yet purposeful confidence is a great sentiment I think to be carrying forward as next week’s schedule kicks in. E.Tautz would inevitably end up on any list I drew up of the best of London menswear, and has long been championed by me here because of the unique mix of history with a thoroughly modern approach to designing clothes for men. Patrick’s singular vision … Read More »
Backstage at E.Tautz yesterday I was struck by the sense of calm and orderliness. Models in hair clips were being given final instructions on pace and demeanor, outbreaks of Estuary English accent adding grit to the vision the Toni & Guy team had perfected, as though one could suddenly hear the voices of the powdered, coiffed cast of a silent-era military epic. One had a sense of Patrick Grant as captain at the helm of a tight, sleek and exceptionally well groomed company of men, with none of the sense of panic or chaos one imagines backstage.
From the pre-show notes I was already aware that the collection was inspired by the work of Richard Serra, and took other reference points from military cloaks. Freemason’s Hall was the perfect setting for the very dramatic collection, … Read More »
Menswear Day is always a sensory overload: with catwalk shows, presentations, installations, chance meetings, not to mention encounters with streetstyle photographers and the bundles of press releases and free papers one inevitably returns home with all jostling for headspace. So, looking back over the day’s events, captured on iPhone, camera and in memory, surprises often surface, alongside clear recollections of what went by. Here are a few of my favourite moments from yesterday, captured at the quieter points in the day.
1. Backstage at the E.Tautz run through, a model in his own clothes but groomed to perfection by Toni & Guy practises his paces.
2. The latest fabrications from Sharpened Lead favourite, Marwood ties. I wasn’t at all surprised to hear that these speckled fabrics have been first to catch the eyes of discerning Fashion Week attendees.
3. The Fashion East installations never fail to surprise and provide specatacle. Here a frosty-looking model at L.Ipop brings a touch of Arctic explorer to the inside of Somerset House.
4. I was very happy to see this Sibling blend of fair isle and leopard print up close after being wowed by Paris Fashion Week photos and have a chat with Cozette about another adventurous video installation from the trio.
“I don’t NEED to know what the suits are made of”, commented one female (presumed) journalist on the stairs above The Lincoln Room, deep within The Savoy Hotel, “Well I do, replied her colleague, “I have to write about this stuff!”. Given you’re reading this, I’m sure you’ll agree with me that as men we really do care about what we wear, and whilst certain quarters of the fashion press still think of men’s fashion needs in the third person, with men to be passively shopped for and “kept on trend”, luckily the greater part of the audience for the E.Tautz presentation on Wednesday looked to be much more likeminded, sharing an expectation that we were about to see beautiful menswear and to be educated about it by Patrick Grant.
Seven days ago today I was lucky enough to attend the E.Tautz menswear show during London Fashion Week. This season I have deliberately held back from rushing out posts as I wanted to savor what was a joyous day for menswear in London. And the E.Tautz presentation was certainly a highlight worth appreciating over time, as you would wish to linger over a mouthful of good wine before swallowing.
Despite the slight scrum and occasional fashion snarl at the over zealous ROH security staff, we were finally ushered up the plush staircase to the salon-like atmosphere of the aptly named Crush Room. Under the refined light from that now much-photographed chandelier the fashion weary crowd were soothed by piano music and the promise of elegance.
Patrick announced that he would not be talking through each look during this presentation (and judging by … Read More »
Having missed both the Barney’s trunk display in NY and what sounded like a great presentation on LFW Menswear day here back in September, I was delighted to have the opportunity to have a personal talk through the E.Tautz SS11 collection by Patrick Grant himself at their 9 Savile Row address a couple of weeks ago.
Despite having taken a transatlantic flight the night before, Patrick was impeccably groomed as ever, in a dark grey suit from the first E.Tautz collection, black knitted tie and tasselled loafers.
My first impressions from the rack of the E.Tautz line for next spring was that it’s a more casual, approachable collection with a colour theme involving lots of blue. This lighter take on English dressing was confirmed by Patrick, who explained that some of the more structured, fitted pieces had been edited out of this … Read More »
New York was crazy last night! Even if you chose to stay in your hotel room and live vicariously through the Twitter/blogger spheres (which my exhausted feet tell me I didn’t) the sheer range of events and the numbers of people involved would be truly staggering. From Iggy Pop on stage at the POP (geddit?) party at Don Hill’s, to Karen Elson at Balenciaga to the roadblocked Opening Ceremony French-themed fleamarket at the Ace hotel and various downtown block parties, Manhattan was gridlocked with fashion people schlepping from hotspot to hotspot across the island.
My personal experience was a mix of hits and misses: next year I will come much more prepared with a strict schedule that doesn’t rely so much on scarce taxis.
Highlight for me was the Opening Ceremony event at the … Read More »
Given how excited I was to get involved in the E.Tautz Postcard Project, I’ve been a little amiss in announcing it here on the blog. When I met Patrick Grant a few months back between collections, he mentioned that not only was the E.Tautz site being relaunched but that he was planning a special project whereby style commentators would be invited to send in postcards, preferably of the tactile variety, but with the purpose of being emailed to subscribers to the site – and invited me to take part. I was instantly attracted to the idea, being a fan of vintage photography and a lover of correspondence of all types. It brought to mind thoughts of Mail Art and the fun and danger that counter cultural types such as Genesis P. Orridge, William S. Burroughs and Joe Orton had with things you can post in their respective times.
With the British summer proving to be as unpredictable as the will-they-won’t-they negotiations that just ended at No. 10, its best to plan for everything and be a man for all seasons. Here are some current favourites from what’s in stores right now. As a new touch, each pick is partnered with suggested reading, viewing or listening. It’s all about the inspiration, right?
There’s a whole lot of grey marl going on out there (unfortunately a bit too much of it in Essex). But I’ve always been a fan of the plain sweatshirt, especially when the shape is right. When you just want a really good look and to stay warm, you can’t go wrong. Plain clothing can also be a very stylish approach to wearing colour, such as a strong red sweatshirt paired with quality blue denim like Read More »